Abadan Island runs long and narrow, between 3 and 19 kilometers wide, wedged between the Arvand waterway to the west and the Bahmanshir outlet of the Karun River to the east. The Persian Gulf lies 53 kilometers to the south. The Iraqi border follows the western waterway. The provincial capital, Ahvaz, sits 140 kilometers to the northeast. This geography made Abadan a natural pipeline terminus when the Anglo-Persian Oil Company came looking for a refinery site in 1909. It also made the city a natural target when Iraq invaded Khuzestan in 1980. Water surrounds Abadan, but it has never been an easy place to defend or to leave.

On August 19, 1978, arsonists barred the doors of the Cinema Rex and set it ablaze during a screening. Between 377 and 470 people died in one of the deadliest acts of deliberate arson in modern history. The fire inflamed the revolutionary movement that would topple the Shah the following year. Two years after the revolution, war arrived. In September 1980, Iraqi forces surrounded Abadan and bombarded its refinery. The siege lasted twelve months. The refinery, then processing 628,000 barrels per day, was largely destroyed. Of the city's 300,000 residents, nearly all fled. When the siege broke in September 1981, Abadan was a ghost city. Reconstruction has taken decades, and the city's population has never fully recovered to prewar levels.

Abadan's climate is not merely hot. It is among the most extreme inhabited environments on Earth. Summer days regularly exceed 45 degrees Celsius, and temperatures above 50 degrees are not uncommon. The air is arid, the wind carries sand and dust, and the combination turns afternoon streets into places most people avoid. Winters offer relief, with mild temperatures between 16 and 20 degrees Celsius and occasional rain that turns the dusty landscape briefly green. Spring arrives fast and leaves faster. Residents have adapted their rhythms accordingly. Markets come alive in the early morning and late evening. The midday hours belong to shade, tea, and patience.

Abadan's cuisine reflects its position at the crossroads of Iran, Iraq, and the Persian Gulf. Seafood dominates the table. Ghaliye mahi, a spicy stew of fish and herbs distinctive to southern Iran, is a local staple. Medfune and khoroshte bamie round out meals that lean heavily on the catch from nearby waters. Barbecued mahi sobur appears at gatherings and celebrations. Dates grown in the region supply an array of desserts. Tea is everywhere, served strong and sweet, available at any hour in any neighborhood. The food tells the story of a port city connected by water to Basra, Kuwait, and the wider Gulf, absorbing influences from every direction.

Abadan has its own airport, with flights connecting to Tehran and other Iranian cities via Iran Air and smaller carriers. The nearest railway station is in Khorramshahr, about 10 kilometers to the north, with daytime trains from Ahvaz and overnight service from Tehran and Mashhad. River ferries operated by the Valfajr Shipping Company cross from Basra in Iraq to Khorramshahr several times per week, a journey of just under an hour. Within the city, the traditional bazaar remains the commercial and social center. Shadegan wetland, to the north, draws birdwatchers, and a golf course offers an unexpected diversion on this industrial island. Abadan does not attract many tourists, but those who come find a city whose resilience is written into every rebuilt block.