Assateague Island
Assateague Island stretches 37 miles along the Atlantic coast, a barrier island of dunes, marsh, and maritime forest straddling the Maryland-Virginia border. It would be notable enough for its beaches and wildlife, but what makes Assateague famous is its wild horses - sturdy, shaggy ponies that have lived on the island for centuries. Their origin is debated: local legend says they swam ashore from a wrecked Spanish galleon; more likely, they descend from horses released by 17th-century colonists avoiding mainland livestock taxes. The Virginia herd is owned by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company, which holds an annual pony penning each July - swimming the horses across the channel to Chincoteague Island, auctioning foals, and swimming the adults back. Marguerite Henry's 1947 novel 'Misty of Chincoteague' made the ponies nationally famous.
The Ponies
Assateague's horses are technically feral, not wild - they descend from domestic stock. Centuries of island living have shaped them: they're small (around 12-13 hands), hardy, and adapted to a diet of salt marsh cordgrass that would kill most horses. The salt grass makes them drink twice as much water as normal horses, giving them a characteristic bloated appearance. Two herds exist, separated by a fence at the Maryland-Virginia border. The Maryland herd is managed by the National Park Service; the Virginia herd belongs to the Chincoteague fire company. Both populations are carefully controlled to prevent overgrazing.
The Origin
Every local will tell you the ponies swam ashore from a Spanish galleon wrecked in a storm. There's no historical evidence for this romantic story. More likely, the horses descend from stock released on the island by 17th-century colonists to avoid mainland taxes and fencing requirements - a common practice on barrier islands. Documentation of horses on Assateague dates to 1669. By the 1800s, annual roundups were held to brand foals and sell surplus animals. The shipwreck legend persists because it's a better story. The ponies don't seem to care about their pedigree.
The Pony Penning
Each July, the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company rounds up the Virginia herd for Pony Penning - a tradition since 1925. On the last Wednesday of July, 'saltwater cowboys' herd the ponies to the southern tip of Assateague and swim them across the channel to Chincoteague Island at slack tide. Thousands of spectators watch from boats and shore. The ponies rest overnight, then foals are auctioned Thursday morning. Proceeds fund the fire company. The remaining horses swim back to Assateague Friday. The event draws 40,000 visitors and is the main economic event of the year.
Misty
Marguerite Henry's 1947 novel 'Misty of Chincoteague' made the ponies famous. Based on a real pony, the book follows a wild mare and her foal as they're captured during Pony Penning and gentle by local children. The book won a Newbery Honor and has never been out of print. The real Misty lived until 1972 and is preserved, taxidermied, at the Museum of Chincoteague Island. Generations of children have visited Assateague because of the book, creating an economic impact far beyond what foal auctions bring. Misty made the ponies symbols of wildness, freedom, and the special bond between children and horses.
Visiting Assateague
Assateague Island is accessible from two points. The Maryland end, near Ocean City, has the Assateague Island National Seashore with camping, beaches, and a visitor center. The Virginia end is accessed via Chincoteague Island and includes the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Ponies roam freely and are often seen from roads and trails, but they're wild animals - maintain 40 feet distance. Pony Penning (late July) draws huge crowds; book accommodations months ahead. The island has no permanent human residents; facilities are limited. Ocean City (Maryland) and Chincoteague (Virginia) offer services. Norfolk International Airport (ORF) is the nearest major airport. Spring and fall avoid summer crowds; winter is beautiful but cold.
From the Air
Located at 37.91°N, 75.35°W, Assateague Island stretches 37 miles along the Atlantic coast, straddling Maryland and Virginia. From altitude, the narrow barrier island is clearly visible with the Atlantic to the east and Chincoteague Bay to the west. Chincoteague Island and town are visible at the southern end. The ponies are sometimes visible as small dots on the beach or marsh from low altitude. Ocean City's high-rise hotels mark the northern end. The vulnerability of this thin strip of sand to storms is evident from above.