Los Angeles skyline and San Gabriel mountains.
Los Angeles skyline and San Gabriel mountains.

Bunker Hill, Los Angeles

neighborhoodsurban-historylos-angelesdowntowndemolition-history
4 min read

Prudent Beaudry, the 13th mayor of Los Angeles, developed Bunker Hill beginning in 1867, cutting streets into the hilly terrain west of downtown and selling lots for the Queen Anne and Eastlake Victorian houses that would accumulate over the next two decades into a dense residential neighborhood. The Angels Flight railway, built in 1901, connected Beaudry's hill to the commercial streets below. By 1955, the city of Los Angeles had declared the neighborhood blighted and set in motion what would become the longest urban renewal project in the city's history. The Victorian houses are gone. The 22,000 people who lived there are gone. What replaced them is the cultural district that now defines downtown Los Angeles.

The Neighborhood That Was

Bunker Hill in its Victorian era was a neighborhood of middle-class ambition — families who had done well enough to afford a proper house on a proper hill, close enough to downtown to walk to business but elevated enough to feel apart from it. The architecture was High Victorian: wraparound porches, ornate gingerbread trim, turrets and towers expressing the era's confidence in decorative excess. As the 20th century advanced, the neighborhood's social character shifted. Residents who could afford to moved to new suburbs; their houses were subdivided into rooming houses and apartments. By the postwar period, Bunker Hill had become what city planners called a 'skid row annex' — which is to say, it housed the kind of people the city preferred not to see.

The Noir Landmark

Before it was demolished, Bunker Hill was the preferred setting of Los Angeles noir fiction. Raymond Chandler's Philip Marlowe navigated its streets; John Fante wrote about its rooming houses in Ask the Dust. The hill's combination of faded grandeur and present poverty — Victorians turned tenements, Angels Flight shuttling people up and down the grade, the downtown towers visible below while the neighborhood itself decayed above — gave it the exact visual and emotional texture that noir required. Filmmakers used it too: the physical reality of Bunker Hill, before the bulldozers arrived, appears in dozens of films from the 1940s and 1950s.

The Clearance

The 1955 declaration of blight began a process that stretched through the 1990s. Approximately 22,000 people were displaced from Bunker Hill — mostly elderly residents, recent immigrants, and people with limited resources who had made their lives in the affordable housing the neighborhood provided. The city's Community Redevelopment Agency acquired parcels through eminent domain, demolished buildings, and prepared the cleared land for commercial and institutional development. The process was so prolonged that Bunker Hill existed for decades as a construction site, its former residents long gone and its replacement still incomplete.

What Replaced It

The Bunker Hill that exists today is an institutional district of a particular Southern California ambition. The Museum of Contemporary Art, designed by Arata Isozaki, opened in 1986. Frank Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall, commissioned in 1987 and opened in 2003, became one of the most photographed buildings in Los Angeles. The Broad contemporary art museum, designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, opened in 2015 next to Disney Hall. The Grand, a hotel and residential tower designed by Gehry, completed the transformation of the hill's western face. It is, by any measure, a distinguished cultural district. Whether what was there before was worth what was sacrificed to build it remains a question the city has never fully answered.

From the Air

Bunker Hill is at 34.0520°N, 118.2503°W in downtown Los Angeles, the elevated terrain immediately west of the historic Broadway corridor. The Walt Disney Concert Hall's distinctive stainless steel exterior is visible from the air as a reflective cluster on the hill's western face. Grand Avenue runs along the ridge. Nearest airports: Burbank Bob Hope (KBUR) 12 miles northeast, Hawthorne (KHHR) 9 miles southwest, Los Angeles International (KLAX) 13 miles southwest.