The cave had been known to Native Americans for millennia. European Americans discovered it in the 1890s, attracted by what appeared to be smoke rising from the desert. Jim White, a young cowboy, investigated and found not fire but bats - millions of them, roosting in a cave so large its dimensions defied comprehension. White began exploring, eventually becoming the cave's first guide and chief advocate. The bat flight drew early attention; it would take decades to appreciate that the cave system itself - with chambers large enough to hold the Capitol building - was the greater wonder.

Carlsbad hosts one of North America's largest bat colonies - predominantly Brazilian free-tailed bats (Tadarida brasiliensis), with smaller numbers of other species. The population peaks in late summer when young bats join the nightly exodus. Each bat consumes roughly half its body weight in insects nightly, meaning the colony removes tons of pests from the surrounding ecosystem. The bats roost deep in the cave during the day, hanging from ceilings in clusters so dense they appear as living curtains. At night, they hunt across thousands of square miles of desert and agricultural land.

The emergence follows a pattern. As daylight fades, bats begin stirring. The first scouts leave the cave, testing conditions. If predators (hawks, owls) are present, the main flight delays. When safe, bats pour from the entrance in a counterclockwise spiral, gaining altitude rapidly before dispersing to feed. The stream can continue for hours - a river of wings flowing into the darkening sky. The return flight at dawn is faster, less ceremonial: bats fold their wings and dive into the cave at 25 miles per hour, air pressure changes popping observers' ears.

The National Park Service hosts formal bat flight programs at the Bat Flight Amphitheater, a stone seating area carved into the hillside near the natural entrance. Rangers provide interpretation before the flight - bat biology, colony history, conservation status. Electronics are prohibited during the actual emergence; flash photography and recorded sounds disturb the bats. The amphitheater holds several hundred visitors; popular evenings fill completely. The experience is surprisingly moving: watching hundreds of thousands of small animals perform an ancient ritual creates genuine awe. The bats don't know they're performing. The audience knows they're witnessing something rare.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park is located in southeastern New Mexico, roughly 150 miles northeast of El Paso. The bat flight occurs from late April through October; peak population is typically August and September. Programs begin one hour before sunset; arrive early to secure amphitheater seating. Bring layers - desert temperatures drop rapidly after sunset. The cave tours and bat flight are separate experiences; both are worth attending. The park has a visitor center and café but no overnight lodging; Carlsbad (town) has hotels and restaurants. No flash photography during the flight. The bats return for the winter; off-season visitors won't see the emergence.