Chateau of the Dukes of Bourbon

medieval-castlesfrench-heritagebourbon-dynastyhistoric-monuments
4 min read

Louis II, Duke of Bourbon, died in August 1410 in a room on the second floor of the castle he had spent decades building. The room still exists -- or rather, its bones do. A barrel vault in semicircle, lowered on two arches, with a rib vault featuring additional branches radiating from each corner to a central keystone decorated with four fleurons surrounding a coat of arms. The walls are now covered in cement. The jointures are all modern. The keystone is authentic, but the room around it has been reworked so many times that the Duke who died there would not recognize it. This is the story of the Chateau of the Dukes of Bourbon in Montlucon: a fortress that survived English occupation and the Hundred Years' War, then spent five centuries being slowly unmade by the people who owned it.

From Roman Castrum to Bourbon Stronghold

The hilltop at Montlucon has been fortified since at least 1070, when Guillaume, son of Archambaud IV of Bourbon, became seigneur of the town and built a fortress on the ancient Roman castrum. A century later, the English occupied it from 1171 to 1188 -- a seventeen-year presence that ended only when Philip Augustus reclaimed the site and handed it to the Bourbon family. They transformed the basic fortification into a genuine stronghold, but the castle as it stands today owes its form primarily to Louis II, Duke of Bourbon, who began major construction around 1370, in the thick of the Hundred Years' War. The edifice he envisioned was formidable: a double row of ramparts, four gates, and forty-one watchtowers. His successors refined his vision, adding the square tower, the East facade openings, the North wing, and the Clock Tower through the mid-15th century.

From Fortress to Pleasure Palace

What Louis II conceived as a military stronghold, his descendants gradually softened into something more comfortable. During the last half of the 15th century, a gallery was raised overlooking the courtyard and the North interior was embellished with wider openings and decorative elements. An elegant turret appeared. The evolution visible in these walls traces the broader shift in French military architecture during the 15th century -- from castle as bunker to castle as residence. The last Dukes of Bourbon used Ventadour as a place of pleasure, not defense. But pleasure, too, has an expiration date. When the Bourbonnais was unified with the French crown under Francis I, the castle lost its political purpose. It was abandoned in 1527, and for more than a century no one of consequence lived within its walls.

The Long Unraveling

After 1662, the Princes of Conde became lords of the Bourbonnais crown lands and conceded the castle to a farmer. They showed no interest in its upkeep. Nicolas de Nicolay, visiting sometime in this period, noted that the castle had fallen into ruins for want of basic roof maintenance -- a failure he called a 'big shame.' The French Revolution touched the castle lightly, destroying only the Bourbon coats of arms on the Clock Tower. Afterward, the building served variously as a police court and a meeting hall for the General Assembly of inhabitants. Then, in 1816, the city of Montlucon purchased it from Louis Joseph, Prince of Conde, to convert it into an infantry barracks. What followed was catastrophic. The wood gallery was torn out for concrete construction. The interior was reworked repeatedly for courts, auditoriums, and city hall offices. Demolitions during the 19th century proved more destructive than any medieval siege.

Cement Over Gothic Stone

A restoration campaign began in 1935, but its results were mixed at best. The wood gallery was rebuilt, but a Gothic skylight was poorly restored and covered with cement. The Duke's former bedroom on the second floor -- the room where Louis II died -- received the same treatment: cement over historic stone. The walls, the jointures, the surfaces that once showed centuries of craftsmanship now present a uniform modern finish that, as observers have noted, 'cannot be considered as authentic.' Metal frames from the 1930s restoration cover some of the ceiling panelings. The castle was registered as a historic monument on May 15, 1926, a designation that has at least prevented further demolition. Today the Chateau of the Dukes of Bourbon crowns the old town of Montlucon, visible from across the Cher valley, its silhouette still commanding even if its interior tells a more complicated story of preservation and loss.

From the Air

Located at 46.34N, 2.60E in Montlucon, in the Allier department of the Auvergne region of central France. The castle sits on a prominent hilltop above the old town, visible from the air as a large medieval structure overlooking the Cher river valley. Best viewed at 2,000-4,000 ft AGL. Nearest airport is Montlucon-Gueret (LFBK). The castle's rectangular profile and Clock Tower are distinguishable from moderate altitude in clear conditions.