Chub Cay

bahamasislandsfishingprivate-islandsberry-islands
4 min read

The blue hole on Chub Cay drops thousands of feet into the earth, and at the bottom - or at least as far down as anyone has looked - there are cars. And bathtubs. And other objects that have no business being in a saltwater abyss on a private island in the Bahamas. Nobody explains how they got there. The blue hole is accessible by golf cart, which tells you something about the scale of Chub Cay: an island small enough to navigate without a car, remote enough to require a plane or a boat, and strange enough that its most notable geological feature doubles as an underwater junkyard where you can catch snapper.

Wreckers, Emancipation, and the Fish Bowl

The Berry Islands exist because of shipwrecks. Bahamian wreckers - salvagers who made their living recovering cargo from ships that crashed on the reefs - were the first to settle the chain, drawn by the treacherous shallow waters that kept breaking hulls and scattering goods. The first settlement grew up on Great Stirrup, an island now known as CocoCay. After British emancipation in 1834, formerly enslaved people settled across the Berry Islands, building communities on cays that most maps barely acknowledged. The chain earned the nickname "The Fish Bowl of the Bahamas," and as of the 2010 census, its total population stood at just 807 people spread across roughly thirty islands and over a hundred small cays. Chub Cay accounts for forty-six of those residents. The majority live on Great Harbor Cay, leaving most of the smaller islands to the iguanas and the birds.

The Tongue and the Trench

What makes Chub Cay remarkable for fishing is not what sits above the waterline but what drops away beneath it. The island perches near the edge of the Tongue of the Ocean, a deep underwater trench that plunges to over 6,000 feet and runs between Andros Island and the Exuma Cays. This abrupt transition from shallow bank to abyssal depth creates an upwelling effect that concentrates marine life in extraordinary density. Billfish, tuna, wahoo, king mackerel, and grouper patrol the deep water within easy reach of the island's marina. Shallower flats offer bonefishing, the patient sport of stalking silver ghosts across ankle-deep sand. Bottom fishing yields yellowtail snapper. The variety is the point - three distinct types of fishing, all accessible from a single dock. Sport fishing has been the island's economic engine for decades, and the Tongue of the Ocean is the reason.

Peacocks, Iguanas, and a Peculiar Settler

Chub Cay's wildlife reads like the inventory of a very specific collector. Iguanas bask on coral rock and hide in palm tree canopies, herbivorous and harmless despite their size. Lizards dart across the narrow dirt roads that wind through the island's east side, where open brush and palm trees give way to beachfront. So far, standard Bahamas. But the island also has roosters and peacocks wandering freely, and their presence traces back to the first permanent settler, who arrived with a large collection of birds. The birds reproduced. They stayed. Generations later, they still roam the island, their calls mixing with the sound of surf on the west-side beaches. It is the kind of ecological footnote that only a small, private island can sustain - a place where one person's eccentric hobby becomes the landscape's defining feature.

Oil Money and Island Renovation

In November 2013, George Bishop bought Chub Cay. Bishop had founded GeoSouthern Energy in 1981 and built it into a significant player in south Texas oil and gas. When GeoSouthern sold its fields to Devon Energy for $6 billion in 2013, it ranked as one of the largest payoffs of the American oil boom. Bishop channeled some of those proceeds into acquiring and renovating the island. The resort and marina underwent a transformation, repositioning Chub Cay as a private destination accessible only to guests. The island's 5,000-foot paved runway handles commercial service from carriers like Makers Air and Aztec Airways, plus private aircraft with prior runway approval. An on-site Customs and Immigration office operates daily. The marina connects to the open Atlantic, and the state-of-the-art facilities reflect the investment of a man who made billions from what lies beneath the earth and then bought an island defined by what lies beneath the sea.

Forty-Six People and a Blue Hole

Chub Cay is one of two islands in the Berry chain that has a blue hole - the other is on Hoffman Cay, accessible only by boat. Blue holes are vertical caverns in the seabed, their saltwater columns dropping to depths that make accurate measurement difficult. From above, they appear as dark circles of water set against the pale turquoise of the surrounding shallows, their color deepening to indigo at the center. The Chub Cay blue hole sits within golf-cart range of the resort, a geological anomaly treated as a casual attraction. Fish it for snapper. Peer into it and wonder about the cars. The island itself is coral-based, warm year-round, ringed by sand beaches that wrap the entire coastline though visitors gravitate to the west side. Rain comes in summer. The rest of the year, forty-six residents share their island with iguanas, peacocks, and guests who came for the fishing and stayed for whatever it is about a small, strange island that refuses to be ordinary.

From the Air

Chub Cay sits at approximately 25.45°N, 77.76°W in the Berry Islands chain of the Bahamas. The island has a 5,000-foot paved runway at Chub Cay Airport (ICAO: MYBC) with on-site Customs and Immigration. Commercial service is available from Makers Air, Aztec Airways, Tropic Air Charters, and Island Air Charters. Nassau's Lynden Pindling International Airport (ICAO: MYNN) is approximately 65 nm to the southeast. From the air, the island is a small coral-based landmass in the Berry Islands chain, with a marina visible on the eastern side connecting to the Atlantic. The blue hole is visible as a dark circle against the shallow turquoise water. The Tongue of the Ocean trench begins just to the west, visible from altitude as a dramatic color change from light to deep blue. Great Harbor Cay lies to the north. Weather is tropical with warm conditions year-round.