Higher-quality PNG version of John McConnell's Earth Day flag, based on this photograph. Requested at the English Wikipedia Graphics Lab.
Higher-quality PNG version of John McConnell's Earth Day flag, based on this photograph. Requested at the English Wikipedia Graphics Lab.

Clouds Forest

Forests of Iran
4 min read

The village is called Abr. The word means cloud. Stand at the forest's edge near this small settlement 45 kilometers northeast of Shahroud, and you understand why. Clouds pour through gaps in the Alborz Mountains, channeled between peaks of different heights, and drift down into the canopy like slow rivers of vapor. When they snag on branches, they break apart into rain. This is the Clouds Forest, a 35,000-hectare expanse of ancient woodland stretching from Semnan Province to Golestan Province across northern Iran, and one of the last surviving fragments of a forest that covered this landscape during the Tertiary period, tens of millions of years ago.

Where the Clouds Get Trapped

The phenomenon that gives the forest its name is a product of topography. The Clouds Forest sits at the northern base of the Alborz Mountains, where elevations shift abruptly. A high ridge stands close to a lower valley, and when moisture-laden air from the Caspian Sea pushes south, it encounters these steps in the terrain. The clouds cannot rise fast enough to clear the peaks, so they settle into the spaces between, descending through the tree canopy. Eventually the moisture condenses and falls as rain. The forest lies at the boundary between two climate zones: dry and semi-arid to the south, humid and semi-humid to the north. This atmospheric collision sustains an ecosystem that has no business existing where desert should be.

Roots in the Hyrcanian Past

This is not just any old forest. The Clouds Forest is a significant remnant of the Hyrcanian forests, an ancient belt of temperate broadleaf woodland that has lined the southern shores of the Caspian Sea since the Tertiary period. While ice ages stripped much of the Northern Hemisphere of its tree cover, the Caspian corridor preserved species that vanished elsewhere. The result is a living museum of botanical diversity. Beech and oak grow alongside elm and alder. Wild pear trees fruit in the understory. Yew trees cling to rocky slopes. Most distinctive is the juniper that grows close to the ground, a form unique to this region. The forest extends as a verdant band across Semnan Province, a strip of green between the brown mountains and the Caspian lowlands.

Leopards in the Mist

Bears move through the upper reaches of the forest. Persian leopards hunt ibex along the rocky ridgelines where trees thin out into alpine meadow. The convergence of two climates creates habitat diversity that supports an unusually wide range of species for a forest of this elevation. Natural springs bubble up throughout the woodland, feeding pockets of dense vegetation that serve as refuges for wildlife. The forest is also a source of rare medicinal herbs, plants whose chemistry has been shaped by the specific combination of altitude, moisture, and soil that exists nowhere else in quite this form. In the highlands, forest pastures and meadows open up between the trees. At lower altitudes, the canopy closes in, and the air thickens with moisture.

The Difficulty of Getting There

Part of what has preserved the Clouds Forest is its inaccessibility. Located along the road from Semnan to Golestan Province, the forest is reachable but not easily so, particularly in autumn and winter when cold temperatures and heavy rainfall make the approach treacherous. The forest sits at considerable elevation above sea level, and its relatively cool summer temperatures offer relief from the heat of the Iranian plateau. But come autumn, the same qualities that make the forest beautiful make it inhospitable. Snow and mud close trails. The clouds that drift so photogenically through the canopy in summer become thick, cold curtains that reduce visibility to meters. This seasonal difficulty has acted as a natural barrier, keeping the ancient Hyrcanian ecosystem largely intact while similar forests elsewhere have been logged or converted to farmland.

From the Air

Located at 36.75N, 55.05E on the northern slopes of the Alborz Mountains in Semnan Province, Iran. The forest is visible from altitude as a green band against the brown mountain terrain, approximately 45 kilometers northeast of Shahroud. The distinctive cloud formations trapped between the peaks are sometimes visible from above. Nearest airport is Shahroud Airport (OIMS). Best viewed at 5,000-10,000 feet. Look for the contrast between the arid southern slopes and the green forested northern face of the Alborz range.