Coeur d'Alene
The lake stretches impossibly blue beneath the mountains, its waters so clear you can see the bottom from the shore. This is Coeur d'Alene, the largest city in northern Idaho, named by French-Canadian fur trappers who thought the local Schitsu'umsh people drove hard bargains - 'coeur d'alene' means 'heart of an awl,' implying a sharp, pointed heart. A century ago this was mining and timber country, scene of bitter labor disputes that shaped Idaho's early history. Today the blight is gone, replaced by tourism built on that extraordinary lake and the outdoor adventures that surround it.
The Floating Green
The Coeur d'Alene Resort Golf Course claims the only floating golf green in the world. The 14th hole plays to a target that literally floats in the lake - a 15,000 square foot island green accessible only by boat. The distance varies from 100 to 200 yards depending on where the green is anchored, changed daily by the course superintendent. It's a gimmick, perhaps, but a spectacular one, and it draws golfers from around the world.
Beyond the famous floating green, the region claims dozens of courses, both public and private. The mountain setting, the clean air, and the long summer days make this prime golf country. Winter visitors find equally world-class skiing within 90 minutes at Schweitzer, Silver Mountain, and Lookout Pass.
Route of the Hiawatha
East of town, one of America's great rail-trails awaits. The Route of the Hiawatha follows the abandoned Milwaukee Road railroad grade for 15 miles through the Bitterroot Mountains, passing through ten tunnels and over seven sky-high trestles. The trail is mostly downhill from the Montana side, making it accessible to almost anyone with a bike.
The St. Paul Pass Tunnel, nearly two miles long, marks the route's most dramatic moment. Riders enter in darkness, headlamps piercing the black, emerging into mountain scenery that early passengers on the Olympian Hiawatha experienced from their train windows. The trestles are equally impressive, spanning valleys hundreds of feet below. A shuttle returns riders to their starting point, completing what many consider the finest rail-trail experience in the country.
Lakefront Living
Lake Coeur d'Alene dominates the city's identity. Twenty-five miles long and covering over 30,000 acres, it offers boating, waterskiing, fishing for bass, trout, and salmon, and swimming at public beaches. The lakefront resort anchors the downtown, its towers rising beside the boardwalk where visitors stroll and boats bob in protected slips.
The city's downtown clusters near the lakefront, compact enough to explore on foot. Upscale shops line the streets, many in historic buildings that survived the decline of the mining era. The Village at Riverstone offers more modern shopping, though most visitors spend their time on or near the water. Sunset over the lake, mountains silhouetted against orange sky, explains why so many who visit never quite leave.
Time Zone Quirk
Northern Idaho follows Pacific Time despite being part of a Mountain Time state. The panhandle's economic ties to Spokane, just 30 miles west across the state line, proved stronger than administrative convenience. This means Coeur d'Alene and Spokane share the same time, while Boise - Idaho's capital - runs an hour ahead.
The time zone reflects a larger reality: the Idaho panhandle relates more to eastern Washington than to southern Idaho. Spokane's airport serves Coeur d'Alene visitors. Spokane's Amtrak station provides the nearest train service. The cities form a single metropolitan area that happens to span two states, their fates linked by the interstate highway that makes the drive between them a 40-minute commute.
From the Air
Located at 47.69N, 116.78W on the north shore of Lake Coeur d'Alene in the Idaho panhandle. The lake is the dominant feature - 25 miles long, stretching southeast into the mountains. Downtown sits at the lake's northern tip where the Spokane River begins. I-90 runs east-west through town, connecting to Spokane 30 miles west and the Montana border 40 miles east. Coeur d'Alene Airport (KCOE/SFF) serves private aircraft; Spokane International (KGEG) handles commercial flights. The Bitterroot Mountains rise to the east. Note: Despite being in Idaho, this area follows Pacific Time (same as Washington). Clear weather common; wildfire smoke possible in late summer.