
There was once a saying in Beijing: wear the hats of Ma Ju Yuan, stand in the shoes of Nei Lian Sheng, wear the clothes of Ba Da Xiang, and take your money from the Si Da Heng Banks. Every one of those shops stood on Dashilan, a narrow commercial street stretching just 275 meters from east to west, south of Tiananmen Square. The saying survives because the street does. Dashilan -- pronounced Dashilanr in the Beijing dialect, with the characteristic erhua suffix -- remains one of the capital's oldest continuously operating commercial districts, a place where brands founded centuries ago still do business alongside the inevitable modern additions.
The street did not always carry its current name. During the Ming dynasty, the area was known as Langfang Sitiao, one of several lanes west of the road outside Qianmen gate. Although the name Dashilanr did not yet exist, the location was already a flourishing commercial district where merchants gathered. In 1488, the central government built wooden fences at every street and lane entrance in Beijing as a public safety measure. The large fence -- da shilan -- at the entrance to this particular lane gradually became the street's name, replacing the old Langfang designation. In 1899, a fire swept through and destroyed the wooden fence that had given the street its identity, but by then the name had long since detached from the object.
Walk the length of Dashilan today and you pass shops that have been in continuous operation for well over a century. Tongrentang, the Chinese herbal medicine store, has been dispensing remedies since the Qing dynasty. Rui Fu Xiang still sells silk. Nei Lian Sheng makes shoes. Zhang Yi Yuan sells tea. Ma Ju Yuan crafts hats. These are officially designated China Time-honored Brands, a government classification that recognizes businesses with deep historical roots. The concentration of such brands in a single 275-meter stretch is remarkable, a living museum of Chinese commerce that persists not through preservation orders but through continued patronage. Customers still come for Tongrentang prescriptions and Rui Fu Xiang fabrics, maintaining commercial traditions that predate the Republic.
Dashilan was not merely a shopping district. For centuries it served as Beijing's entertainment center, with five grand Chinese opera theaters lining its short length: Qingle Yuan, Sanqing Yuan, Guangde Lou, Guanghe Yuan, and Tongle Yuan. Daguan Lou, the first movie theater in Beijing, also stood here, introducing the capital to motion pictures. In its earlier incarnations, the area also housed brothels and opium dens, the seedier side of a commercial ecosystem that catered to every appetite. The Zhengyici Peking Opera Theatre, a landmark in the area, preserves the tradition of Chinese opera performance. The Ji Xiaolan Residence, former home of the Qing dynasty scholar and literary critic, offers a glimpse into the intellectual life that coexisted with the street's commercial bustle.
Michael Meyer, who taught at the nearby Tan'er Hutong Elementary School and wrote about the area in The Last Days of Old Beijing, found that even the school's own principal did not know its history. Meyer spent months assembling a narrative by talking to elderly residents in the surrounding lanes, piecing together a story of constant renaming and relocation that mirrored the larger transformation of the neighborhood. The area around Dashilan has been subject to redevelopment pressures that have altered much of old Beijing, but the street itself has retained its commercial character. It sits just west of Qianmen Street, anchored by the same geographic logic that made it prosperous centuries ago: proximity to the gate, to Tiananmen Square, and to the flow of foot traffic that has always defined this part of the capital.
Located at 39.91N, 116.39E, just south of Tiananmen Square in Beijing's Xicheng District. The narrow hutong street pattern is visible from lower altitudes. Nearest airport is Beijing Capital International Airport (ZBAA), approximately 28 km northeast.