For over four centuries, Dubrovnik functioned as an independent city-state rivaling Venice in maritime prowess and diplomatic sophistication. The Republic of Ragusa, as it was known, never fielded armies or conquered territory - instead, it survived through shrewd diplomacy, paying tribute to the Ottoman Empire while maintaining trade privileges throughout the Mediterranean. The republic's motto, 'Libertas' (freedom), still appears on the city's flag. Ragusa's merchant ships carried cargo from Constantinople to London, its bankers financed ventures across Europe, and its diplomats were welcomed in courts from Madrid to Istanbul. The republic abolished slavery in 1416, centuries before most European states. This golden age ended with Napoleon's arrival in 1808, when French troops dissolved the republic and later ceded the territory to Austria. The walls that once protected a sovereign state now protect one of Europe's most visited historic centers.

Dubrovnik's city walls offer the essential experience of the old town - a two-kilometer circuit that takes roughly ninety minutes and provides views over terracotta rooftops, the harbor, the shimmering Adriatic, and the forested island of Lokrum offshore. The walls reach up to 25 meters high and six meters thick in places, punctuated by towers that once mounted cannons against Ottoman and Venetian threats. The Minčeta Tower at the northern corner offers the highest vantage point; Fort Bokar guards the western approach; Fort Revelin protects the eastern harbor. Walking in the morning or late afternoon avoids both the midday heat and the cruise ship crowds that can overwhelm the circuit during peak hours. The walls survived the 1667 earthquake that destroyed most of the city within them, and they survived the 1991-92 siege when Yugoslav forces shelled the old town.

The Stradun - officially Placa - serves as the old town's spine, a 300-meter promenade paved with limestone polished smooth by centuries of footsteps. At its western end, Onofrio's Fountain has provided fresh water since 1438, fed by an aqueduct from a spring twelve kilometers away. The Franciscan Monastery houses Europe's third-oldest functioning pharmacy, operating continuously since 1317. The Rector's Palace, where the republic's elected leaders served one-month terms to prevent any accumulation of power, now contains a museum of Ragusan history. The Cathedral Treasury displays relics including what is claimed to be a piece of the True Cross. Narrow side streets climb steep stairs to residential quarters where laundry still hangs between stone buildings and cats doze on warm steps. Despite the crowds on the Stradun, these alleyways retain the texture of a living city rather than an open-air museum.

Dubrovnik's appearance as King's Landing in HBO's Game of Thrones transformed its tourism economy, bringing both opportunity and challenge. Guided tours trace filming locations: the Jesuit Staircase where Cersei began her walk of shame, Fort Lovrijenac doubling as the Red Keep, the Rector's Palace atrium appearing in multiple scenes. Yet the association risks reducing a complex historical city to a television set. Dubrovnik struggles with overtourism - on peak summer days, up to 10,000 cruise passengers might disembark into a walled town built for 1,500 residents. The city has implemented visitor caps, raised prices, and encouraged off-season travel. Those who come outside July and August, or who venture beyond the walls to nearby Lokrum Island, the Elafiti archipelago, or the Pelješac wine region, find a destination whose real history proves as compelling as any fantasy.

Dubrovnik's compact old town makes orientation simple: enter through the Pile Gate, walk the Stradun, explore the side streets, climb the walls. The city functions as a base for day trips to Montenegro's Bay of Kotor, the islands of Korčula and Mljet, and the vineyards of Pelješac. The beach at Banje lies just east of the old port; better swimming awaits on Lokrum, a ten-minute ferry ride to a forested island with a botanical garden and a ruined Benedictine monastery. Accommodation within the walls carries premium prices; staying in Lapad or Gruž offers better value and easier parking. The cable car to Mount Srđ provides panoramic views over the walled city and the coastline stretching toward Albania. Come in May or October to enjoy warm weather, swimmable seas, and manageable crowds - before or after the summer siege of tourists that has become Dubrovnik's annual challenge.