A view of Casselberry, Florida's City Hall on Triplet Lake Drive.
A view of Casselberry, Florida's City Hall on Triplet Lake Drive.

Eatonville, Florida

historic-townafrican-american-historyfloridaliteraturecivil-rights
4 min read

In 1889, the Eatonville Speaker newspaper ran an advertisement that read like a declaration of independence: "Colored People of the United States! Solve the Great Race Problem by Securing a Home in Eatonville, Florida, a Negro City Governed by Negroes." The paper described a thriving community of 200 to 300 residents and pointedly noted that a near-lynching had occurred in Sanford, just nineteen miles away. Eatonville offered something almost unimaginable in the Jim Crow South: a place where Black Americans governed themselves, owned property, and built institutions on their own terms. Incorporated on August 15, 1887, it was one of the first self-governing all-Black municipalities in the nation, and the small town six miles north of Orlando has carried that distinction -- and the weight of it -- ever since.

Built on Refused Ground

The town's founding required an act of persistence against the architecture of segregation. J.E. Clark and several friends attempted to purchase land to establish what Clark called a "colony for colored people," but as he later recounted, "so great was the prejudice then existing against the Negro that no one would sell them land for such a purpose." They persevered. By 1887, Eatonville was officially incorporated as a municipality, creating a self-governing community where Black citizens elected their own officials, ran their own businesses, and shaped their own civic life. A post office opened in 1889 and operated until 1918. The town was not a utopia -- poverty, limited resources, and the constant pressure of the surrounding Jim Crow world defined daily reality -- but it was sovereign territory in a region where sovereignty for Black Americans barely existed.

Zora's Front Porch

Eatonville's most famous resident was Zora Neale Hurston, the folklorist and author who grew up in the town and wove its rhythms, dialect, and communal life into some of the most important American literature of the 20th century. Her novel Their Eyes Were Watching God is set in Eatonville and nearby communities, many of which have since disappeared beneath the sprawl of Greater Orlando. Hurston's writing captured the porch-front storytelling, the sharp humor, and the dignity of a community that existed outside white oversight. The Eatonville Historic District, added to the National Register of Historic Places on February 3, 1998, contains 48 historic buildings, several directly connected to Hurston and the town's founding. The Moseley House Museum preserves the domestic architecture of the era. Each year, the Zora Neale Hurston Festival of the Arts and Humanities draws visitors to the streets Hurston once walked.

Where the Music Played

Before racial integration opened mainstream venues, Club Eaton was a landmark stop on the Chitlin' Circuit, the network of performance spaces where Black entertainers could perform for Black audiences across the segregated South. The club's stage saw some of the greatest musicians of the 20th century: B.B. King, Aretha Franklin, Ray Charles, Sam Cooke, Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, James Brown, and The Platters all performed there. The Robert Hungerford Normal and Industrial School, founded in 1897 by Professor and Mrs. Russell C. Calhoun, graduates of Tuskegee Institute, provided another pillar of community life. Booker T. Washington donated $400 toward its establishment. The school offered vocational and college preparation to Black students for over a century, its campus eventually growing to encompass almost 40 percent of the town's total land area before closing in 2010.

Sacred Ground, Contested Future

The story of Eatonville's land is the story of its survival. When Orange County Public Schools took control of the Hungerford School in 1950, they purchased its campus from a trust for approximately $16,000 with the stipulation that the land be used "for the education of Black children." Over the decades, the school district petitioned courts multiple times to reduce the acreage bound by that restriction. By 2019, the remaining parcel was appraised at $20 million. In 2023, the school board announced plans to sell it to a developer for $14 million, with proposals for 350 homes, apartments, retail businesses, and restaurants. Residents see the development as an existential threat to one of America's oldest Black communities. The town that was built because no one would sell land to Black Americans now fights to keep the land it has. Eatonville today is home to roughly 2,350 people. Interstate 4 passes through its city limits, but there is no exit -- a geographic fact that feels almost symbolic, the wider world rushing past a place that has always had to insist on its own existence.

From the Air

Located at 28.62N, 81.38W in Orange County, Florida, approximately 6nm north of downtown Orlando. The town is small and residential, bordered by the communities of Winter Park and Maitland. Interstate 4 passes through Eatonville's city limits but has no direct exit; the closest interchanges are Florida State Road 423 to the south and Florida State Road 414 to the north. Recommended viewing altitude 2,000-3,000 feet AGL. Nearby airports: Orlando Executive Airport (KORL) approximately 6nm south, Orlando International Airport (KMCO) approximately 16nm southeast.