Map indicating the Arikara, Hidatsa and Mandan Indian territory as described in the Treaty of Fort Laramie (1851), North Dakota
Map indicating the Arikara, Hidatsa and Mandan Indian territory as described in the Treaty of Fort Laramie (1851), North Dakota

Fort Berthold Indian Reservation

American Indian reservations in North DakotaMandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara NationGeography of North DakotaNative American History
4 min read

The photograph shows George Gillette, chairman of the Three Affiliated Tribes, weeping as he watches Secretary of Interior Julius Krug sign the contract that would flood their homeland. It was 1948, and the Garrison Dam agreement would soon put 156,000 acres of the Fort Berthold Reservation's most fertile land under water, destroying the economic heart of the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara Nation. This single image captures the central story of Fort Berthold: a history of loss measured in millions of acres, followed by adaptation, survival, and an unexpected twist of geological fortune.

Twelve Million Acres to This

The Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851 recognized nearly 12 million acres belonging to the Three Affiliated Tribes - lands spanning North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, Nebraska, and Wyoming. By 1870, when the U.S. government formally created the Fort Berthold Reservation, that territory had already shrunk dramatically. Executive orders in 1880 and 1886 reduced holdings further. The Dawes Act forced the division of communal lands into individual allotments, breaking apart a way of life that had thrived on collective stewardship. The reservation today encompasses 988,000 acres straddling the Missouri River across six North Dakota counties, but only 457,837 acres remain in Native ownership. The rest passed to non-Native hands through the allotment system designed to, in the government's words, encourage "subsistence farming in the European-American style."

The Village Beneath the Water

For centuries, the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara peoples lived in earth lodge villages along the Missouri River, their permanent settlements centered on farming, trading, and the river's abundant resources. Like-a-Fishhook Village served as the last great concentration of these three nations before the reservation era. Then came Garrison Dam. Constructed between 1947 and 1953, the dam created Lake Sakakawea - and drowned the heart of the reservation. The flooding destroyed the bottomlands where families had farmed and ranched for generations. It submerged towns, severed communities, and scattered a people whose identity was tied to the river. Today, water covers 263 square miles of the reservation - one-sixth of its total surface area. The lake that destroyed so much now defines the reservation's geography.

The Four Bears Crossing

The original Four Bears Bridge opened in 1955, a lifeline connecting reservation communities separated by the new lake. For fifty years it served as the primary route across Lake Sakakawea, named after the great Mandan chief Four Bears who led his people through the devastating smallpox epidemic of 1837. The replacement bridge, opened in 2005, carries traffic between New Town on the north shore and communities to the south. New Town serves as tribal headquarters, the 18th largest city in North Dakota, home to the tribal government offices and the 4 Bears Casino and Lodge built in 1993. Other communities - Mandaree, Parshall, Twin Buttes, White Shield - dot the reservation's vast expanse, connected by roads that wind around the lake's intricate shoreline.

Black Gold Beneath the Prairie

Geology offered the Three Affiliated Tribes an unexpected turn of fortune. The Bakken shale formation, a layer of oil-bearing rock extending beneath western North Dakota, underlies significant portions of the reservation. When hydraulic fracturing and directional drilling technologies made Bakken extraction economically viable around 2000, the reservation found itself positioned atop one of America's largest oil fields. The boom brought wealth, jobs, and complications. Oil revenues transformed tribal finances, but rapid development strained infrastructure and communities. The contrast with the flooding that destroyed tribal lands half a century earlier carries bitter irony - the same federal government that took their best farmland now leases mineral rights on what remained.

Three Nations, One Future

The Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara were three distinct peoples who came together through circumstance and survival. The Mandan and Hidatsa were Missouri River village dwellers when the Arikara, pushed north by conflict and disease, joined them in the nineteenth century. Smallpox epidemics had devastated all three nations, forcing consolidation for survival. That history of adaptation continues. The tribe has resisted further allotment of communal lands since reorganizing in the 1930s. New initiatives include a massive greenhouse operation returning to agricultural roots. Unemployment remains high at 42 percent, and many tribal members have moved to cities seeking opportunity. But the Fort Berthold Reservation endures, its 988,000 acres a fragment of what was promised at Fort Laramie, yet still homeland to a people who have survived epidemics, forced relocations, flooded valleys, and the boom-and-bust cycles of American extraction.

From the Air

Located at 47.74N, 102.28W in northwestern North Dakota. The reservation spans six counties and is dominated by the serpentine shape of Lake Sakakawea, created by Garrison Dam. From the air, the lake's flooded river valleys create intricate shorelines cutting through the prairie. New Town is visible on the north shore, with Four Bears Bridge crossing the lake. The contrast between reservation lands and the artificial lake illustrates the flooding's impact. Oil well pads dot portions of the landscape, evidence of Bakken formation development. Nearest major airport is Minot International Airport (KMOT), approximately 80 miles northeast. Williston Basin International Airport (KXWA) lies about 60 miles northwest. Best viewed at 5,000-8,000 feet AGL to appreciate the lake's extent and the reservation's geography across the Missouri River basin.