The Golden Madonna is kept in a side-chapel of Essen Cathedral.
The Golden Madonna is kept in a side-chapel of Essen Cathedral.

Golden Madonna of Essen

religious-artgermanyessenmedievalottoniantreasures
4 min read

She is only 74 centimeters tall. About the height of a toddler. You can hold her in your hands, and for most of her existence the canons and abbesses of Essen did - smuggling her between churches at night, dressing her in robes for feast days, treating her not as a statue but as a person who happened to be made of poplar wood and gold leaf. Around the year 980 someone, probably in Cologne, carved her from a single piece of wood, hammered out impossibly thin sheets of gold, and pressed them around her. She is the oldest sculpture of the Madonna anywhere, and the oldest free-standing sculpture of any kind that survives north of the Alps.

An Emperor's Mother, A Child Heir

To understand why the Madonna was made, you have to understand what was happening in 983. Emperor Otto II had died suddenly in Rome, leaving the throne to his son Otto III - aged three. Otto III's mother Theophanu, a Byzantine princess by birth, served as regent and held the empire together against Henry the Quarrelsome, who was making his own claim to the crown. The reigning abbess of Essen at this moment was Mathilde, granddaughter of Otto I and a partisan of the regent's cause. Look at the sculpture now and the politics become hard to miss: a woman holds a globe in her right hand, an orb of power, while a small but extravagantly dressed Christ child sits on her lap. A mother holding the world for her son until he is old enough to rule it. Historians have long suspected that Theophanu herself donated the figure to Essen Abbey as both devotion and statement.

How She Was Made

The core is poplar, carved from one trunk. The carver clearly had not done much of this before - statues this big and this free-standing had been almost unknown in the Christian world since the Byzantine iconoclasm two centuries earlier. The proportions don't quite resolve: the profile, the front, and the back do not flow into a single coherent body. None of which mattered, because the surface was what people saw. Sheets of gold leaf were beaten thin enough to wrap the wood smoothly and then pressed in around every fold of the carved drapery. The folds themselves echo those on the Cross of Otto and Mathilde, dated 982 and known to have come from a Cologne goldsmith's shop. That stylistic fingerprint is the strongest evidence we have for where the Madonna was born.

What She Holds

The thing she holds aloft has puzzled historians for a thousand years. It looks like a globus cruciger, the orb-and-cross symbol of imperial sovereignty, except that the cross is gone and her fingers grip it in a way no emperor in the artistic record ever does. One reading: it is an "apple of salvation," a deliberate inversion of Eve and the fruit of the Tree of Knowledge. Mary, the New Eve, offers redemption where Eve offered damnation. Another reading: it is the Mundus, the world itself, and Mary holds it on behalf of the infant who is its true ruler. Both readings work. In the 10th century, theology and politics were the same conversation. A mother regent ruling for an underage emperor would have heard her own situation in both.

A Living Object

From her creation through the Reformation, the Golden Madonna lived a life. She was kept normally in the treasury and brought out for major feasts. On the most important procession - the Purification of the Virgin, forty days after Christmas - the treasuress handed her to the youngest canon of the parish on the eve of the feast. He hid her under his cloak and carried her at night to St. Gertrude's church in the city. The next morning she was veiled and carried back to the cathedral in solemn procession, laid on the offering stone called the steyn, ceremonially unveiled, and crowned with the child crown of Otto III. Then she was carried back into the minster, just as Mary had been welcomed by the people of the Heavenly Jerusalem. The processions ended in 1561 when the Reformation reached the city, though not the abbey. Bishop Franz Hengsbach revived the ritual in 1978. Concerns from the restorers ended it again in 2000.

Patroness of the Ruhr

Pope John XXIII issued a Pontifical decree on 8 July 1959 naming the Golden Madonna as Our Lady of Good Counsel and patroness of the newly established Diocese of Essen, the so-called Ruhrbistum. The decree was signed by the Vatican Secretary of State, Cardinal Domenico Tardini. That same year, Cardinal Hengsbach moved her out of the treasury and into a climate-controlled, high-security showcase in the northern side chapel of Essen Cathedral, where she remains. The Ruhr is one of the most heavily industrialized regions on earth, a place defined for two centuries by coal smoke and steel furnaces. Its symbol is a thousand-year-old wooden statue covered in gold leaf, made for a queen defending her son's throne.

From the Air

The Golden Madonna lives in Essen Cathedral at 51.456 N, 7.014 E, in the historic center of Essen. The cathedral is small relative to the surrounding city - look for its compact octagonal westwork rather than soaring spires. Nearest airport is Dusseldorf International (EDDL) at about 15 nm southwest; Essen/Mulheim (EDLE) is on the western city edge. Best viewed from low overhead, 2,000-3,000 ft AGL, with the Ruhr River bending south of the cathedral and the railway main line passing immediately north.