Göteborg (SE) - Schäreninsel
Göteborg (SE) - Schäreninsel

Gothenburg Archipelago

Gothenburg archipelagoGothenburgLandforms of Västra Götaland CountyIslands on the Swedish West Coast
4 min read

The Norse called these islands Elfarsker, the river islets, for their position where the Gota alv empties into the Kattegat. It was here, according to the sagas, that Viking warriors settled their disputes through holmgang, the ritualized single combat that gave the islands a fearsome reputation across Scandinavia. Today, the Gothenburg Archipelago sprawls across two distinct chains, northern and southern, offering something far more peaceful: a glimpse of Swedish coastal life where cars are banned and flakmopeds, those charming flatbed scooters, rule the narrow paths.

Where Beowulf May Have Begun

The island of Branno holds a secret connection to one of the greatest works in English literature. The Laxdaela saga describes Branno as an important location for fairs, and scholars believe it may be the homeland of Breca and the Brondings, who appear in both the Anglo-Saxon poem Widsith and, more famously, in Beowulf itself. Whether Breca truly swam these cold Kattegat waters in his legendary contest with Beowulf, the literary connection places this quiet Swedish island in an unexpected cultural lineage stretching from Viking Age trade fairs to medieval English epic poetry.

Two Archipelagos, Two Worlds

The northern islands, part of Ockero municipality in the province of Bohuslan, connect to the mainland via car ferries from Lilla Varholmen. Here, road bridges link some islands, and motor vehicles move freely across Hono, Bjorko, and their neighbors. The southern archipelago tells a different story. These islands belong to Gothenburg municipality in Vastergotland and maintain a strict car-free policy. The 5,000 permanent residents and 6,000 summer visitors rely on bicycles, delivery mopeds, and the distinctive flakmopeds to navigate their island world. Ferries from Saltholmen and central Gothenburg's Stenpiren Travel Centre integrate seamlessly with the city's public transit system.

Island Characters

Each southern island has developed its own personality over centuries. Donso emerged as an important fishing and ship-owning community, its harbor surrounded by twentieth-century fishing facilities that still anchor the local economy. Styrso traces its tourism roots to the 1830s, when the Oberg family opened a guesthouse that blossomed into a bathing resort after steamboat service began in 1867. Vargo has been a protected nature reserve since 1986, its varied sea landscape hosting razorbills, woodland birds, gulls, and eiders. And then there is Kopstadso, often called Kosso, where even mopeds are forbidden. On this tiny island with its narrow footpaths, residents move goods by wheelbarrow, maintaining a stillness that seems impossible just a ferry ride from Sweden's second-largest city.

The Southernmost Outpost

Vrango marks the southern boundary of inhabited archipelago life, a small island with a town center and hiking routes circling both its northern and southern reaches. From here, the Kattegat stretches toward Denmark, the open water that once carried Viking longships and now ferries tourists seeking the particular peace of island time. The archipelago remains remarkably accessible despite its isolation: the same transit tickets that work on Gothenburg's buses and trams carry passengers aboard Styrsöbolaget ferries, a subsidiary of Transdev Sverige operating under contract with the regional Vasttrafik authority. Bicycles come aboard when space allows, completing the connection between urban convenience and island serenity.

From the Air

The Gothenburg Archipelago lies at 57.62N, 11.78E in the Kattegat strait between Sweden and Denmark. From altitude, the two distinct island chains are visible: the northern group near Ockero connected by bridges, and the scattered southern islands stretching toward Vrango. The Gota alv river estuary provides the mainland reference point. Gothenburg Landvetter Airport (ESGG) lies 25km east of the city. For low-level approaches, the archipelago offers dramatic island-hopping scenery with fishing harbors and nature reserves visible among the granite outcrops.