Twenty-one birds. That was the count in the 2009 census: thirteen females and eight males, scattered across a parcel of semi-arid grassland near the city of Solapur in Maharashtra. The great Indian bustard, one of the heaviest flying birds on Earth, once ranged commonly across the dry districts of central India. By the time the sanctuary bearing its name was established in 1979, the species was already in steep decline. Today the count is lower still, and this sanctuary -- formally known as the Jawaharlal Nehru Bustard Sanctuary of Maharashtra -- represents one of the species' last footholds in a landscape being transformed around it.
The bustard's presence at Nannaj, the core area of the sanctuary, was first documented by B. S. Kulkarni in 1972. Kulkarni did more than identify the birds -- he campaigned relentlessly for their protection, writing in local newspapers to raise public awareness of a species most people in the region had never noticed. His efforts drew the attention of Dr. Salim Ali, India's most celebrated ornithologist, who visited Nannaj and launched a formal research project. The sanctuary that followed in 1979 owed its existence to this unlikely chain: a local naturalist, a national icon of bird science, and a bird that preferred the kind of dry, unpromising terrain that no one else was fighting to protect. Kulkarni has continued his advocacy for decades, a lifetime spent defending a landscape that looks, to the untrained eye, like nothing worth saving.
The sanctuary sits within the Deccan thorn scrub forests ecoregion, a world of gentle undulations and isolated hillocks rising to 450-500 metres above sea level. Temperatures swing from 13 degrees Celsius in mild winters to 43 degrees in the searing summer. The topography lacks the dramatic scenery that draws tourists to India's more famous wildlife reserves -- no tigers, no snow-capped peaks, no dense jungle canopy. Instead, there are grasslands, stony grazing land, crop fields, and scattered thorny trees. But for the bustard, this apparent emptiness is essential. The birds need wide-open, short-grass plains for nesting, for their elaborate courtship displays, for foraging, and for roosting. Dense vegetation is not habitat -- it is a trap, blocking the sightlines these ground-nesting birds rely on to spot predators.
In a cruel irony, some of the greatest threats to the bustard came from programs designed to help the land. The Drought Prone Areas Programme, financed by the World Bank beginning in 1975, encouraged the planting of trees across the Solapur district to combat erosion and provide fuel. Forest department woodlots introduced species like neem, gliricidia, and tamarind into the Nannaj plots. Within years, invasive weeds -- particularly lantana and hyptis -- colonized the spaces between the planted trees, converting open grassland into dense woodland. Satellite images tell the story starkly: what was once scrubland became forest, and the bustards vanished from those areas entirely. No bird was recorded in the dense woodlots. The sanctuary's management plan eventually acknowledged the problem, but action was slow to follow.
In 2008, after years of bureaucratic groundwork, the Forest Department began uprooting trees from 25 hectares of sanctuary land -- 15,240 trees removed from plots that had been grassland just decades earlier. The results arrived with startling speed. On August 15, 2009, an observer watched a male great Indian bustard forage in the newly cleared Nannaj plot for 45 minutes before walking calmly across into the adjacent Mardi grassland. Indian bushlarks, rufous-tailed larks, yellow-wattled lapwings, and red-necked falcons reappeared in the opened habitat, a procession of grassland species reclaiming ground that had been taken from them. The Forest Department has proposed clearing additional plots at Mardi, Akolekati, and Karamba. Whether these efforts will be enough remains uncertain. The bustard breeds during the monsoon season, July through October, and each female produces a single egg -- a reproductive rate that leaves almost no margin for error in a world that keeps shrinking around them.
Located at 17.83N, 75.87E in the semi-arid Deccan Plateau near Solapur, Maharashtra. The sanctuary covers a vast area of flat grassland and scrubland with gentle undulations and scattered hillocks. From the air, look for the contrast between open grassland plots and denser wooded areas -- the cleared patches are the bustard habitat. Nearest major airport is Pune (VAPO), about 250 km northwest. The landscape appears dry and brown for most of the year, with green patches during the monsoon season.