
The door stone spent decades as a stepping stone at a local elementary school. Children walked over it every morning without knowing they were treading on the sealed entrance to a 1,300-year-old tomb. When someone finally identified the flat slab for what it was, it was returned to Hanayamazuka Kofun and placed on the floor of the antechamber where it had once hung on a pivot. That casual misplacement -- a sacred object repurposed for schoolyard foot traffic, then quietly restored -- captures something essential about this burial mound on the southeastern rim of the Nara Basin. It has been open, exposed, and overlooked since antiquity. Yet what remains inside tells one of the most unusual stories of any kofun in Japan.
Japanese burial mounds of the Kofun period are overwhelmingly built of earth and stone. Hanayamazuka Kofun breaks that pattern. Its burial chamber walls are constructed from quartz trachyte processed into uniform bricks, stacked and solidified with plaster. The sarcophagus itself is made of bricks -- an extreme rarity in Japan. The antechamber measures 2.18 by 1.36 meters with a height of 1.68 meters, its side walls vertical up to about 1.2 meters before transitioning to a corbeled arch. Two granite ceiling stones still span the top. The inner chamber is smaller and more intimate: 2 meters by 0.7 meters, just one meter high, its floor paved with stone slabs. Both rooms were once entirely coated in plaster, creating smooth white walls inside a hillside. This technique has far more in common with burial mounds in the Korean kingdoms of Baekje and Goguryeo than with anything native to the Japanese archipelago.
The brick-coffin construction style points to a single conclusion: the person buried here was almost certainly a toraijin, a powerful immigrant from the Korean peninsula. Similar brick-coffin tumuli exist in the nearby Uda region, forming a small cluster of Korean-style burials on the eastern edge of the Nara Basin. These immigrants -- administrators, artisans, scholars, and priests -- played outsized roles in shaping early Japan. Documents from the period record that in the Takaichi District of Nara, the vast majority of residents had Baekje ancestry. The occupant of Hanayamazuka Kofun was wealthy and influential enough to command the construction of a substantial tomb on a hilltop at 450 meters elevation, yet no grave goods survive. The tumulus has been open since antiquity, its contents long since scattered or decayed. Even the occupant's name is lost. What remains is the architecture -- and the architecture speaks Korean.
Hanayamazuka Kofun occupies an unusual position in the landscape. The road from Sakurai City to Uda via Meyori Pass is dotted with burial mounds, particularly around the Awahara neighborhood, which was known as a dense concentration of late Kofun-period tumuli. But this tomb sits at the very back of Awahara Valley, on the southern slope of a ridge, with no other obvious tumuli within a 500-meter radius. It is isolated. The tumulus was created by digging into the hillside in a horseshoe shape and sculpting the earth into a circular mound roughly 16 meters in diameter. The horizontal-entry stone burial chamber opens to the south, and its three-meter passageway is now exposed to the sky -- the mound and ceiling stones above the corridor were lost long ago. Designated a National Historic Site of Japan in 1927, the kofun is roughly 6.6 kilometers east of Sakurai Station on the JR West Sakurai Line.
Hanayamazuka Kofun is sometimes called Hanayama Nishizuka -- the Western Mound -- because a companion tomb, Hanayama Higashizuka Kofun, sits to the southeast. This Eastern Mound is a circular tumulus 17 meters in diameter and 3.5 meters high, also with a brick-coffin-style horizontal stone burial chamber opening south. But it lacks the inner chamber that makes the Western Mound distinctive, suggesting a slightly different rank or ritual purpose. Both are dated to the late seventh century, at the very end of the Kofun period, when Japan was rapidly absorbing continental culture and transforming into the centralized state of the Nara period. The Eastern Mound is not included in the National Historic Site designation. Together, the twin tombs on this quiet ridge represent a moment when the boundaries between Korean and Japanese identity were still fluid -- when a powerful family from across the sea could choose a remote valley in Yamato as their final resting place.
Located at 34.508°N, 135.907°E on the southeastern edge of the Nara Basin, near Meyori Pass in Sakurai, Nara Prefecture. The kofun is on a forested hillside at approximately 450 meters elevation and is not visible from high altitude. Nearest airport is Osaka Yao (RJOY), approximately 20 nm to the northwest. Nara Airport (RJNN, Nara Heliport) is closer but limited to helicopter traffic. Kansai International (RJBB) is about 45 nm to the southwest. Best appreciated at lower altitudes (2,000-3,000 feet AGL) where the ridge topography and valley system become visible. The Awahara Valley and Meyori Pass road provide orientation. Look for the forested ridge on the southeastern rim of the Nara plain, east of Sakurai city center.