Ishinohoden Kofun: The Stone Chamber That Outlasted Its Mountain

archaeologyhistoric-siteburial-moundosakajapan
4 min read

Most burial mounds hide their secrets underground. The Ishinohoden Kofun, perched on a hillside at the western foot of Mount Ikoma in Neyagawa, Osaka, did the opposite -- it lost the mound and kept the chamber. Centuries of erosion stripped away the earthen covering, exposing a granite burial room carved from two enormous monoliths that sit today in the open air, on the grounds of the Kora Jinja shrine. Designated a National Historic Site of Japan in 1973, the kofun dates to the middle of the seventh century, placing it at the very twilight of the Kofun period, when the tradition of building great burial mounds was fading and new forms of funerary architecture were emerging. What remains is not a ruin so much as a revelation -- the structural bones of an ancient tomb, stripped bare and still standing.

Two Stones, One Room

The burial chamber's construction sets it apart from nearly every other kofun in Japan. Rather than stacking slabs of stone to form walls and a ceiling -- the standard technique for Kofun-period tombs -- the builders of Ishinohoden selected two massive granite monoliths and hollowed them out to create a single enclosed room. The base stone measures 2.7 meters by 1.6 meters; the ceiling stone is larger, at 3.2 meters by 3.3 meters. Inside, the chamber is just 0.9 meters wide, 0.8 meters high, and 2.2 meters deep, with a narrow entrance only half a meter across. Round depressions on either side of the entrance suggest that a stone door once pivoted into place, sealing the dead within their granite shell. Two additional megaliths arranged outside form an entry portico facing south, giving the structure a formal, almost architectural quality that belies its compact size.

The Octagon Question

Behind the burial chamber, three megaliths stand in a row, and an archaeological survey conducted in 1988 confirmed that more stones continue underground to the west. The angle formed by these stones is 135 degrees -- a suggestive measurement. If the stones trace the outer perimeter of the original mound, the tumulus may have been octagonal, a shape associated with the highest ranks of Kofun-period society. Octagonal kofun are exceedingly rare, linked to imperial or near-imperial burials at the end of the period, when the old keyhole-shaped mounds were giving way to new geometric forms. A small fragment of Sue ware pottery found at the site helps date the tomb to the mid-seventh century, consistent with the octagonal theory. No full excavation has ever been conducted, however, leaving the question open and the stones keeping their counsel.

Lost Treasures, Fading Records

The burial chamber has been open to the elements for centuries, so no documented grave goods survive from the tomb itself. But Edo-period records tell a tantalizing story: at some point, a gold-copper burial vessel containing white bones was reportedly excavated from near the tumulus. The vessel's whereabouts are unknown. The Edo-period references prove that the site attracted attention long before the modern era -- visitors and local scholars noted its unusual construction and recorded what they saw. Yet no modern archaeological excavation has followed up on those accounts. The kofun sits on the grounds of the Kora Jinja shrine, a Shinto sanctuary that has protected the stones in its own way, keeping them within sacred space even as the surrounding city of Neyagawa grew up around them.

A Hillside Between Worlds

At an elevation of 100 meters on a gentle slope below Mount Ikoma, the Ishinohoden Kofun occupies the boundary between Osaka's urban sprawl and the forested mountains that separate it from Nara. Mount Ikoma itself has been a spiritual landmark for centuries, home to temples and shrines that draw visitors from across the Kansai region. The kofun sits at the foot of that tradition, a much older monument to different beliefs about death and the afterlife. Today the site is a fifteen-minute walk from Neyagawakoen Station on the JR West Katamachi Line, an easy detour from the commuter trains that carry passengers between Osaka and the eastern suburbs. The granite monoliths have watched the landscape transform around them -- from forested hillside to Shinto shrine grounds to the edge of a modern commuter city -- and they show no signs of yielding yet.

From the Air

Located at 34.75N, 135.66E on the western slopes of Mount Ikoma in Neyagawa, Osaka Prefecture. The kofun sits at approximately 100 meters elevation on a gentle hillside. From the air, look for the forested ridge of Mount Ikoma rising east of Osaka's dense urban grid. The site is within the grounds of Kora Jinja shrine, difficult to spot individually but the shrine grounds provide a green pocket on the hillside. Osaka Itami Airport (RJOO) lies approximately 15 nautical miles to the west-northwest. Best viewed at 2,000-3,000 feet AGL for terrain context.