Iglesia Santa María la Blanca
Iglesia Santa María la Blanca

La Campana

archaeologymesoamericamexicopre-columbiancolima
4 min read

Archaeologists have explored barely one percent of La Campana. The site stretches across 134 hectares between the Colima River and Pereira Creek, and what that one percent has revealed is staggering: stepped pyramids, ceremonial plazas, a ballgame court, shaft tombs with offerings intended to guide the dead into the underworld, and an underground storm drainage system engineered to handle the region's torrential rains. This was the largest prehispanic population center in western Mexico, a place where trade goods from the Pacific coast and central Mexico converged, and where builders constructed walls from river stones joined with clay mortar and finished with fire-hardened stucco. Ninety-nine percent of it still lies beneath the soil of modern Colima.

Three Thousand Years of Occupation

The earliest traces at La Campana date to roughly 900 BCE, but the broader Colima region shows human settlement reaching back about three thousand years. Vestiges of Capacha phase ceramics dating to 1500 BCE were found on the site. The Capacha Culture, a sedentary people dedicated to agriculture and ceramics production, occupied the area between 2000 and 1000 BCE. A later settlement at nearby Los Ortices, active from 300 BCE to 300 CE, produced finer pottery and stone sculpture and buried its dead in the shaft tombs characteristic of western Mexico. By the early sixteenth century, Purepecha groups dominated the region, but the Tecos -- who controlled the valuable Tzacoalco salt mines -- waged a salt war under their leader Coliman that reshaped the political landscape. The Tecos took Sayula, Zapotlan, and Amula, becoming the predominant group before Spanish contact.

A Pyramid Shaped Like Fire

At the heart of the explored zone stands Structure 2, a pyramid altar built on three square stepped platforms with four staggered entrances leading to the top. Its sloped silhouette echoes the profile of the nearby Volcan de Fuego -- the fire volcano -- and archaeologists believe this resemblance was intentional, that the volcano was a central cult object. Structure 1, the largest excavated building, sits on a rectangular base measuring 52 by 36 meters, with overlaid stepped platforms and broad stairs ornamented by stone cubes. Inside its upper temple, circular wells may have stored grain or the ashes of priests and warriors. Human skeletal remains were found on both sides. The stucco that once covered these buildings was fired to hardness and possibly painted with mineral pigments. Traces of vegetable fibers mixed into the adobe suggest construction techniques refined over centuries.

Journeys to the Underworld

The shaft tombs of La Campana are among the site's most revealing features. Near Structure 6, Tomb No. 7 contained a vaulted burial chamber reached by a stepped corridor. Inside were fragments of human remains alongside offerings both domestic and ceremonial -- including a clay dog and a clay mask, objects intended to accompany the deceased on their journey to the underworld. Multiple burials found during excavation share a curious pattern: skeletons frequently lack hands, feet, and portions of the rib cage. The site's funeral customs point to complex beliefs about death and the afterlife that connected La Campana to broader Mesoamerican traditions. Between Structures 5 and 6, a ballgame court oriented east to west hosted Tlalchi, the ritual ball game associated with fertility and political-religious power. Even after the city declined, people returned here for ceremonies.

The Rattlesnake and the Rain God

The Cascabel Pyramid takes its name from a rattlesnake sculpted in stone at the base of its primary stairway. The serpent is symbolically linked to the water cult -- it represents Tlaloc, the rain god, associated with clouds, lightning, and the cyclical return of the rains that sustained agriculture in this volcanic valley. Tlaloc was conceived as a fire snake that passed through the region and, upon falling, sank into the ground. Similar representations appear in Teotihuacan temples, and site studies confirm connections between La Campana and classical period Teotihuacan culture. The Spaniards who arrived in 1524 found the place still known by its original name, Almoloyan -- "place between two rivers." The current name, La Campana, came later, coined by the site's casual discoverers who thought the mound where they found it resembled a bell. It was listed in the Mexican archaeological heritage register in 1917, but the site did not open to the public until 1995.

From the Air

Located at 19.27N, 103.73W on the outskirts of the city of Colima in western Mexico. The site is situated in the Valley of Colima between the Colima River and Pereira Creek. The Colima Volcano (Volcan de Fuego, 3,820 m) dominates the northern skyline and is a major visual landmark. From altitude, the archaeological zone may be partially visible as cleared areas within the urban fringe of Colima. Nearest airport is Playa de Oro International Airport (MMIA) near Manzanillo, approximately 65 km southwest. The related archaeological site of El Chanal is located about 3.5 km to the northwest.