Plaque declaring "this property has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of the Interior"
Plaque declaring "this property has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of the Interior"

Lower Shawneetown

historynative-americanarchaeologycolonial-era
4 min read

"We hope that the Friendship now subsisting between us and our Brothers will last as long as the Sun Shines or the Moon gives light." Those words, spoken by a Shawnee chief known as Big Hominy to British trader George Croghan around 1750, capture the diplomatic tightrope walked daily in Lower Shawneetown. Perched at the confluence of the Ohio and Scioto Rivers, in what is now the border between Kentucky and Ohio, this was no ordinary village. By the 1750s, more than 1,200 people from the Shawnee, Iroquois, and Delaware nations lived here in a sprawling complex of wickiups and longhouses that stretched across both sides of the Ohio River. French and British traders both called it one of two capitals of the Shawnee tribe, and European empires competed fiercely for its loyalty. For a quarter century, Lower Shawneetown refused to pick a side.

A Republic on the River

Established in the mid-1730s, Lower Shawneetown grew at the junction of major waterways and overland trails, including the Seneca Trail used by Cherokees and Catawbas. The French Secretary of State of the Navy described it in 1748 as "a sort of republic" -- a multiethnic community of Shawnee, Iroquois, Delaware, Wyandot, and Miami peoples, bound together by trade and mutual interest rather than a single authority. By 1751, the settlement had 40 houses on the Kentucky bluffs and 100 houses atop a forty-foot Ohio river bank lined with sycamores and willows. Residents built rectangular longhouses covered in bark and thatch, with hearths on earthen floors and bundles of dried food hanging from the rafters. Raven Rock, a 500-foot sandstone formation five and a half miles southwest of town, served as a lookout point, allowing sentinels to survey 14 miles of river traffic in either direction. The surrounding landscape provided hardwood forests, canebrakes, freshwater springs, and herds of bear, deer, elk, and bison.

The Empires Come Calling

The earliest European eyewitness account comes from Baron de Longueuil, who passed through in July 1739 with 123 French soldiers and 319 Native warriors on their way to defend New Orleans from the Chickasaw. The Shawnees gave them a friendly reception and furnished reinforcements. But the real imperial pressure came a decade later, when France realized English traders had deeply embedded themselves in the town's commercial life. In August 1749, the French military officer Celoron de Blainville arrived with orders to expel the British. He summoned the five Pennsylvania traders living in the town and ordered them to leave. Yet Celoron confessed in his own journal that the English were "well-established in a village and well-supported by the Indians" and that any attempt to forcibly remove them would "put the French to shame." Father Bonnecamps, the expedition's geographer, dryly noted that the English traders "promised to do so" -- while being "firmly resolved, doubtless, to do nothing of the kind."

Stubbornly Neutral

What makes Lower Shawneetown remarkable is its dogged political independence. When Twightwee leaders demanded in 1754 that the Shawnees join their fight against the French -- "Why do you sit so still? Will you be Slaves to the French?" -- the town's chiefs refused. When the French confiscated British trade goods and bounties were placed on the heads of English traders like Croghan and interpreter Andrew Montour, the community still sheltered them. Even George Croghan felt safe enough to publicly reveal that the French had put a price on his scalp. The town's neutrality was strategic: sitting at the crossroads of multiple empires and nations, its leaders understood that choosing one side meant making enemies of the other. But neutrality could not last forever in a world hurtling toward war.

Captives and Crossroads

In July 1755, Mary Draper Ingles was kidnapped during the Draper's Meadow massacre in Virginia and brought to Lower Shawneetown along with her two young sons and other captives. Her sons George and Thomas were taken from her and adopted by Shawnee families. French traders in the town sold cloth, and Mary earned goods by sewing shirts for them. After about three weeks, she was taken to Big Bone Lick to make salt. In mid-October 1755, she and another captive escaped and walked several hundred miles back to Virginia -- one of the most remarkable survival stories of the colonial frontier. Captain Samuel Stalnaker, captured on Holston's River in 1756, was also held at the town before making his own escape the following May. The New-York Mercury reported that Mary had seen "a considerable Number of English Prisoners" during her time there.

Vanishing into the Plains

By 1758, the French and Indian War had made Lower Shawneetown's position untenable. Virginia Rangers and Cherokee warriors marched up the Big Sandy River intending to attack the town, though harsh weather forced them to turn back. That November, trader George Croghan arrived at nearby Logstown to find it deserted. The Delaware informed him that the inhabitants of Lower Shawneetown had relocated up the Scioto River to Moguck -- the great Pickaway Plains -- abandoning the riverbank settlement that had endured for a quarter century. Today, the Lower Shawneetown Archeological District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In Portsmouth, Ohio, a series of murals painted on a flood wall between 1992 and 2003 includes a depiction of the town as it might have appeared on a winter day in 1730, keeping alive the memory of a community that once thrived at the crossroads of empires.

From the Air

Located at 38.72°N, 83.02°W, at the confluence of the Ohio and Scioto Rivers on the Kentucky-Ohio border. The site lies near South Portsmouth, Kentucky, and Portsmouth, Ohio. Best viewed at 3,000-5,000 feet AGL to appreciate the river confluence. Nearby airports include Greater Portsmouth Regional Airport (KPMH) approximately 8 nm north, and Huntington Tri-State Airport (KHTS) approximately 50 nm to the east. Raven Rock, the 500-foot sandstone lookout, is visible about 5.5 miles southwest of the confluence. The Portsmouth flood wall murals depicting the town are visible along the Ohio River waterfront.