Litho. Litho naar een oorspronkelijke aquarel van J. Rappard.. Het Marine hotel in Batavia
Litho. Litho naar een oorspronkelijke aquarel van J. Rappard.. Het Marine hotel in Batavia

Marine Hotel, Batavia

indonesiacolonial-historyjakartahotelsarchitecture
4 min read

In early 1853, an itinerant photographer named L. Saurman checked into the Marine Hotel on Batavia's Molenvliet canal and set up shop. His advertisement for Saurman's Daguerrian Gallery in a local newspaper became the first known commercial photography advertisement in the city's history -- a small milestone hosted by a building already two decades into its life as a hotel, and two centuries into its life as a contested piece of ground. The Marine Hotel no longer exists. The canal it overlooked has been filled in. The street has been renamed. But the succession of forts, houses, hotels, civic clubs, and banks that have occupied this single plot along what is now Jalan Gajah Mada tells a compressed history of Jakarta itself -- from Dutch East India Company stronghold to independent nation.

Fortress at the Canal's Edge

Before there was a hotel, there was a gun emplacement. In 1656, the Dutch East India Company built a small fort at the southern end of the Molenvliet, a 17th-century canal that served as Batavia's commercial spine. The fort's purpose was straightforward: guard the canal's terminus. For three decades it did exactly that. But by the mid-1680s, after the Dutch subjugated the Banten Sultanate and security in western Java improved, the fortification became redundant. The VOC vacated it in 1697 and demolished it in 1729. History, however, had other plans for the site. After the horrific massacre of Chinese residents in Batavia in 1740, the colonial government installed a new security post on roughly the same ground. That post endured until Governor General Herman Willem Daendels ordered it torn down in 1808 or 1809. As late as 1815, remnants of the old fortifications were still visible -- stones and foundations that whispered of a century and a half of military anxiety.

A Parade of Owners and Widows

In 1815, a man named Jan Tiedeman bought the cleared site for 4,150 Spanish piastres and built a large house on it. Before 1819, the property changed hands again -- sold to Pieter Willem Helvetius van Riemsdijk for 32,000 silver piastres, a price that suggests significant improvements had been made. By the early 1830s, the house had been converted into a hotel. Pieter Christiaan Stelling, listed as an innkeeper at Molenvliet in 1832, purchased the building in 1833. When Stelling died in 1836, his widow sold it to Hendrik Loust in 1853. What followed was a remarkable chain of mortality and resilience. Cornelis Kramers bought the hotel in 1861; when he died, his widow sold to Eugene Achille Bonnet in 1867. Bonnet died in 1868. His widow sold to Europe Honore Girardeau in 1870. Girardeau -- managing partner of Batavia's well-known bakery Leroux and Co. -- died in 1875. His widow and four children ran the hotel for thirteen more years until they auctioned the property in 1888. The Marine Hotel had survived through the determination of the women who inherited it.

Greek Columns and Cross Ventilation

The building itself was an archetype of the Dutch Indies Empire style that once defined Batavia's streetscape. Symmetrical wings flanked a central structure. A spacious front terrace -- the voorgalerij -- served as the social heart of the property, furnished with wooden chairs for the kind of leisurely tropical socializing that colonial life demanded. A row of Greek columns framed the front portico, lending the facade an air of European formality transposed into equatorial heat. Large windows at the front were not merely decorative; they provided the cross ventilation essential for comfort in a city where air conditioning would not arrive for another century. The Marine Hotel was designed to breathe. Many buildings in Jakarta's old quarter shared this architectural DNA -- the same columns, the same deep verandas, the same practical elegance -- but few survived the relentless cycles of demolition and rebuilding that have defined the city for centuries.

What Replaced What Replaced What

After the 1888 auction ended its life as a hotel, the Marine Hotel building briefly housed the Burgersocieteit 'De Club,' a civic association. That arrangement lasted only until 1890, when the building was demolished. In its place rose the cooperative department store Eigen Hulp, which itself was eventually torn down to make way for the Postspaarbank -- the colonial postal savings bank. After Indonesian independence, the Postspaarbank became Bank Tabungan Negara, the state savings bank whose old headquarters occupied approximately the same footprint as the Marine Hotel had a century earlier. The site on Jalan Gajah Mada has been continuously built upon, demolished, and rebuilt for nearly four hundred years. Each structure erased its predecessor almost completely. No plaque marks where the Marine Hotel stood. No column survives. The only record is in archives and old photographs -- daguerreotypes, perhaps, made by the very photographer who once operated his gallery from behind those Greek columns.

From the Air

The former site of the Marine Hotel was located at approximately 6.17S, 106.82E along what is now Jalan Gajah Mada in Central Jakarta, near the filled-in course of the Molenvliet canal. No original structure remains; the site is occupied by the old Bank Tabungan Negara building. The area sits in the dense urban core of Jakarta's Chinatown district (Glodok). Nearest major airport is Soekarno-Hatta International Airport (WIII), approximately 24 km northwest. Halim Perdanakusuma International Airport (WIIH) is roughly 14 km southeast. The Molenvliet canal's former path, now a road, runs north-south and can be traced from altitude as a straight avenue through the old city.