Mojave Desert

Mojave DesertCalifornia desertsAmerican SouthwestJoshua tree
4 min read

The Mojave Desert exists because of mountains it cannot see. The Sierra Nevada and the Transverse Ranges to the west extract virtually all moisture from Pacific storms before they can cross into the desert interior, leaving the Mojave in a rain shadow that receives, on average, less than five inches of precipitation per year. The result is a landscape that looks simple from the air — tan and beige and gray, broken by mountain ranges that run northwest to southeast — but is, at ground level, more varied than any single color suggests: lava fields, dry lakes, sand dunes, Joshua tree forests, and a geology that begins with ancient Precambrian seafloor and ends with volcanic eruptions that occurred within human memory.

Francisco Garcés and Jedediah Smith

The first European to cross the Mojave Desert was Francisco Garcés, a Franciscan friar who made the journey in 1776 — the same year the American colonies declared independence, though that event was considerably better documented. Garcés traveled with Indigenous guides whose familiarity with the desert's water holes made the crossing possible; without that knowledge, the journey would have been fatal.

Jedediah Smith followed in 1826, becoming the first Anglo-American to cross the Mojave overland. Smith was a fur trader who traveled routes that had previously been known only to Indigenous peoples and Spanish missionaries. His journey opened the Mojave Route to subsequent emigrant and commercial traffic — the same corridor that eventually became the National Trails Highway and, later, Route 66.

The Joshua Tree

The Joshua tree grows nowhere on Earth except the Mojave Desert and a few adjacent transition zones. It is an indicator species — finding a Joshua tree forest tells you, with reasonable certainty, that you are in the Mojave. The name comes from Mormon pioneers who saw in the tree's outstretched branches a likeness to the biblical Joshua pointing the way to the Promised Land.

The tree is technically a yucca — a member of the agave family, not a true tree. Its growth form evolved in the Mojave's specific conditions: the elevation range between roughly 2,000 and 6,000 feet, the precipitation regime that delivers most moisture in winter, the temperature extremes that require specialized physiology. Joshua trees grow slowly. The largest specimens are hundreds of years old. Their persistence in the Mojave is a function of having nowhere else to be.

The Geology Beneath

The rock exposed at the Mojave's surface records geological time in layers that span more than a billion years. The oldest rocks are Precambrian — former seafloor sediments and volcanic rocks that were metamorphosed under heat and pressure long before the Mojave was a desert, long before California existed in its current form. The Farallon Plate, an oceanic tectonic plate that once underlay much of the Pacific, drove its margin beneath western North America for tens of millions of years, creating the Sierra Nevada and contributing to the block-faulting that gives the Basin and Range province — of which the Mojave is a part — its characteristic topography.

Volcanic features punctuate the landscape: Amboy Crater's cinder cone, last active roughly 10,000 years ago; the Cima Dome, a textbook example of a granitic intrusion; lava fields that spread across the desert floor in patterns that record the direction and sequence of ancient flows.

The Cultural Desert

More than eleven music videos have been filmed in the Mojave Desert, a number that reflects the landscape's visual utility for productions seeking to suggest vastness, isolation, or the American West in its mythic form. U2's Joshua Tree album photographs, taken in the Mojave in 1987, became among the most recognizable rock music images of the decade — the band standing in Joshua tree country, their faces weathered and the desert infinite behind them.

The desert has also attracted scientific attention of a different kind. The Goldstone Deep Space Communications Complex in the Mojave tracks spacecraft billions of miles from Earth. The Edwards Air Force Base Mojave Test Area tests aircraft in conditions — high altitude, low humidity, reliable clear skies — that the desert reliably provides. The same qualities that make the Mojave inhospitable to settlement make it useful for observation: you can see clearly, in all directions, for a very long way.

From the Air

The Mojave Desert spans a large area of southeastern California centered approximately at 35.0°N, 115.5°W. From cruising altitude, the desert is recognizable by its characteristic basin-and-range topography — parallel mountain ranges separated by flat valleys. Joshua tree forests are visible at mid-elevations. Major airports serving the Mojave: Los Angeles International (LAX) to the west, Las Vegas Harry Reid International (LAS) to the northeast, Palm Springs International (PSP) to the south.