In 1976, in a Paris blind tasting organized by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier, California wines beat French grands crus in both red and white categories. The French judges, tasting blind, preferred Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and Chateau Montelena to their own legendary Bordeaux and Burgundy. The 'Judgment of Paris' legitimized American wine overnight. Napa Valley, already producing quality wines for a century, became suddenly famous. The valley that had been agricultural California transformed into wine tourism destination, then real estate phenomenon. Today, Napa is among the most expensive vineyard land on Earth, its 400+ wineries drawing millions of visitors annually. Whether the wine is still the point depends on who you ask.
Napa Valley runs roughly 30 miles north from San Pablo Bay, protected by mountains on both sides. The fog that rolls up from the bay cools the southern end; the northern end, around Calistoga, stays warmer. The combination creates diverse microclimates: Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the Rutherford and Oakville hillsides; Chardonnay thrives in the cooler Carneros region. The volcanic soils and Mediterranean climate proved ideal for viticulture - European immigrants recognized this by the 1860s, when wineries began appearing. Prohibition devastated the industry; revival took decades. The quality was always there; recognition took the Judgment of Paris.
Steven Spurrier organized the 1976 blind tasting to celebrate America's bicentennial, expecting the French wines to win easily and generate publicity for his Paris wine shop. The nine French judges - including restaurant owners, wine editors, and sommeliers - tasted blind, unable to distinguish French from Californian. When the scores were tallied, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon topped the reds; Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay topped the whites. The French judges were reportedly mortified. Time magazine covered the story; the American wine industry's inferiority complex ended overnight.
The decades after 1976 transformed Napa from agricultural valley to luxury destination. Mondavi's architectural winery led the way; others followed with hospitality facilities rivaling hotels. Wine prices rose; land prices rose faster. A vineyard acre that cost $7,000 in 1970 can cost $400,000 today. The 'cult wines' - Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Scarecrow - command thousands per bottle and exist entirely on allocation. Corporate ownership replaced family ownership in many cases. The wine remains excellent; the experience of buying it has become exclusive in ways the founders never imagined.
Napa Valley hosts 3.5 million visitors annually, most concentrated on the main Highway 29 corridor. The wineries offer everything from casual tastings to elaborate experiences costing hundreds of dollars. The Napa Valley Wine Train runs through the valley on historic tracks. Yountville has become a restaurant destination; the French Laundry is among the most difficult reservations in America. Hot air balloons drift over the vineyards at dawn. The tourism supports the wine economy while threatening to overwhelm it. Residents complain about traffic; tourists complain about prices; the wine continues aging in barrels while everyone argues about what Napa has become.
Napa Valley is located about 50 miles north of San Francisco, accessible via Highways 29 and 121. Over 400 wineries operate in the valley; most require appointments for tasting. Highway 29 runs the valley floor; the Silverado Trail parallels it with less traffic. The towns of Napa, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, and Calistoga each have distinct characters. Lodging ranges from luxury resorts to modest inns; weekend rates are significantly higher. Consider a designated driver or tour service; DUI enforcement is serious. Harvest season (August-October) offers the most activity and the highest prices. The experience has become expensive, crowded, and occasionally pretentious - and still worth the trouble for wine lovers.
Located at 38.50°N, 122.27°W in a north-south valley between the Mayacamas and Vaca ranges, about 50 miles north of San Francisco. From altitude, Napa Valley appears as a green agricultural corridor between mountain ridges - vineyard blocks creating a patchwork visible from above. Highway 29 traces the valley floor; the towns appear as clusters along its length. The valley narrows to the north near Calistoga. San Pablo Bay opens to the south, the fog source that moderates temperature. What appears from altitude as productive agricultural land is among the most valuable vineyard property in the world - where California wines defeated France and transformed American wine culture.