A reading room on the 21st floot of the the Indonesian National Library
A reading room on the 21st floot of the the Indonesian National Library

The Tower of Every Indonesian Word

National librariesLibraries in IndonesiaBuildings and structures in Jakarta1980 establishments in IndonesiaLibraries established in 1980Deposit libraries
4 min read

Somewhere around the fourteenth floor, in a climate-controlled room overlooking the Jakarta skyline, sits a collection of books so rare that most Indonesians will never touch them. Below, on the ninth floor, ancient texts written on lontar palm leaves and daluang bark paper chronicle a civilization that was recording its stories centuries before the Dutch arrived. The National Library of Indonesia - Perpusnas - is 24 floors of everything this archipelago has ever committed to writing. At 127 meters, it is the tallest library building in the world, inaugurated by President Joko Widodo in September 2017. But the collection inside is far older than the tower that holds it, and the story of how it survived colonial rule, world war, and bureaucratic neglect is as compelling as anything on its shelves.

Born from a Gentleman's Club

The library's origins trace to 1778, when Dutch scholars in Batavia founded the Royal Batavian Society of Arts and Sciences - the first learned society of its kind in Asia. For decades the society promoted scholarship across the Dutch East Indies, accumulating publications and collections that included a growing library. In 1868, the society and its holdings moved to a new building at Merdeka Square, the site that would become Indonesia's National Museum. The collection grew steadily: from 1,115 items in 1846 to over 100,000 by 1920. When the Netherlands attempted to redirect some holdings to the Royal Netherlands Institute of Southeast Asian and Caribbean Studies back in Europe, members of the Batavia society resisted. The books, they argued, belonged where they had been gathered. They stayed.

The Occupation That Respected the Stacks

World War II tested institutions across Southeast Asia, and many did not survive. The society's library did - for an unexpected reason. Japanese forces occupying Indonesia were impressed by the number of Japanese scholars who had been members of the society and chose not to interfere with the museum or its collections. More remarkably, the occupation authorities upheld the library's legal deposit powers, meaning publishers were still required to submit copies of official publications to its shelves. As a result, the library holds a substantial collection of wartime documents that might otherwise have been lost. After Indonesian independence, the society was renamed the Indonesian Institute of Culture before being dissolved entirely in 1962. The library passed into the museum's care, its future uncertain but its collection intact.

Seventeen Years from Idea to Institution

Indonesia's first national development plan in 1961 included a provision for a national library, but nothing came of it. In 1973, Mastini Hardjoprakoso, an employee of the National Museum library, drafted a concept for the institution. The Ministry of Education and Culture was uninterested. It took five more years, a new culture director, and the attention of the National Development Planning Agency before the ministry gave its support. Funding came from an unlikely patron: Madam Tien Suharto, the first lady, who had been struck by a 1968 exhibition of colonial and national newspapers at the museum. In 1980, a ministerial decree consolidated four separate libraries into one national institution - the Library of Political and Social History, the Department of Bibliography and Deposits, the Jakarta regional library, and the museum's own collection. The decree also established Indonesia's national library system, creating libraries at provincial and administrative levels throughout the country.

Twenty-Four Floors of Everything

The new building, completed in 2017, is a vertical archive that rewards exploration. At the entrance, four rooms trace the history of Indonesian reading, from bamboo writing media and lontar palm-leaf manuscripts to European and Chinese paper. Glass cases display the Nagarakretagama, the 14th-century Javanese poem by Empu Prapanca, alongside the Babad Diponegoro, the autobiography of Prince Diponegoro, who led a rebellion against the Dutch in the 1820s. The lobby features a four-story bookcase crowned with an illustrated map of Indonesia. On the seventh floor, a colorful children's room sits alongside a service room for elderly and disabled visitors, stocked with Braille editions and health literature. The eighth floor offers a mini theater, microfilm readers displaying newspapers from the 1800s, and an audiovisual room. The fourteenth floor guards the rare book collection. And from the executive lounge on the twenty-fourth floor, visitors look out over Monas and the sweep of Merdeka Square, the same ground where the Batavian Society first gathered its library two and a half centuries ago.

A Library That Runs a Country's Memory

Perpusnas is more than a reading room. As Indonesia's legal deposit library, it receives a copy of every book published in the country. It administers Indonesia's ISBN program and its Cataloging in Publication system. It maintains bibliographies of Pancasila, the state ideology, and of Javanese manuscripts. Both the United States Library of Congress and the National Library of Australia maintain regional offices in Jakarta, a testament to the collection's international significance. The library runs its own computer cataloging system implementing MARC standards, connecting Indonesian scholarship to global networks. National responsibility for science falls to the Centre for Scientific Documentation and Information, and agriculture to a library formerly part of the Bogor Botanical Gardens, but for the humanities - for literature, history, philosophy, and the deep record of what Indonesia has thought and written - Perpusnas is the keeper.

From the Air

Located at 6.18°S, 106.83°E on the south side of Merdeka Square in central Jakarta. The 127-meter-tall library tower is visible alongside Monas from moderate altitudes. Nearest major airport is Soekarno-Hatta International (WIII), approximately 25 km northwest. Halim Perdanakusuma Airport (WIHH) lies about 13 km southeast. Best viewed at 3,000-5,000 feet where it stands out as one of the tallest structures near the square.