A first time for everything: This adult female Western lowland gorilla in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, northern Congo, uses a branch as a walking stick to gauge the water's depth, proving that gorillas use tools too.
From the magazine: as part of an ongoing study of western gorillas in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo, Thomas Breuer, Mireille Ndoundou-Hockemba, and Vicki Fishlock reveal that gorillas are just as resourceful as the other great apes. From an observation platform at Mbeli Bai, a swampy forest clearing that gorillas frequently visit to forage, Breuer et al. observed an adult female gorilla named Leah (a member of a long-studied gorilla group) at the edge of a pool of water, “looking intently at the water in front of her.” Leah walked upright into the water, but stopped and returned to the edge when the water reached her waist. She then walked back into the water, grabbed a branch in front of her, detached it, and, grasping it firmly, repeatedly jabbed the water in front of her with the end of the branch, “apparently using it to test the water depth or substrate stability.” She continued walking across the pool, branch in hand, “using it as a walking stick for postural support.”
A first time for everything: This adult female Western lowland gorilla in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, northern Congo, uses a branch as a walking stick to gauge the water's depth, proving that gorillas use tools too. From the magazine: as part of an ongoing study of western gorillas in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo, Thomas Breuer, Mireille Ndoundou-Hockemba, and Vicki Fishlock reveal that gorillas are just as resourceful as the other great apes. From an observation platform at Mbeli Bai, a swampy forest clearing that gorillas frequently visit to forage, Breuer et al. observed an adult female gorilla named Leah (a member of a long-studied gorilla group) at the edge of a pool of water, “looking intently at the water in front of her.” Leah walked upright into the water, but stopped and returned to the edge when the water reached her waist. She then walked back into the water, grabbed a branch in front of her, detached it, and, grasping it firmly, repeatedly jabbed the water in front of her with the end of the branch, “apparently using it to test the water depth or substrate stability.” She continued walking across the pool, branch in hand, “using it as a walking stick for postural support.”

Nouabale-Ndoki National Park

national-parkswildlifeconservationworld-heritage
4 min read

No one has ever lived here. In a world where wilderness is almost always a relative term, Nouabale-Ndoki National Park is the rare exception: 3,922 square kilometers of tropical rainforest in northern Congo with no human habitation within its boundaries, no roads crossing its interior, and portions that remain entirely unexplored. The National Geographic Society has observed that the park may contain the largest concentration of wildlife in Africa. Established in 1993 after years of planning between the Wildlife Conservation Society and the Congolese government, Nouabale-Ndoki is managed today through a public-private partnership that will extend through 2038, an unusually long commitment in a region where political timelines are often measured in months.

Born from the Elephant Crisis

The idea for Nouabale-Ndoki emerged in the 1980s, when conservationists realized that forest elephants roaming freely across the region's three-country borderlands were being decimated by poachers and squeezed by the logging industry. The Wildlife Conservation Society and the Congolese government, with support from USAID, initiated planning in 1991 as a transboundary project that required negotiation with local, regional, and national authorities. The park was formally established in September 1993, spanning the northeastern Sangha Department and the northwestern Likouala Department. In 2012, together with Dzanga-Ndoki National Park in the Central African Republic and Lobeke National Park in Cameroon, it was recognized as part of the Sangha Trinational World Heritage Site, a protected area totaling 11,331 square kilometers across three nations. The Fondation Nouabale-Ndoki, created through a 2013 agreement between the government and WCS, manages the park with a mandate extending to 2038.

The Uninhabited Forest

The park is drained by the Sangha River, a tributary of the Congo. Its lowland swamp forests sit within the Congo River drainage basin, and the absence of roads and economic activity throughout its interior has preserved the rainforest in a condition that is increasingly rare on Earth. Parts of the forest remain inaccessible, genuinely unexplored territory in the 21st century. The park has been divided into protected areas, cleared zones known as bais and yangas, seasonal zones for nomadic peoples, designated hunting areas, community zones, and sacred sites. The climate is humid, with an average of 125 centimeters of rain annually, a wet season from August to November, and a dry season from December to February. Twenty-four distinct types of vegetation have been identified, including monodominant stands of Gilbertiodendron dewevrei in the uplands and collections of endangered mahogany species scattered throughout. Over 1,000 plant and tree species have been documented.

Mbeli Bai and the Primate Kingdom

Mbeli Bai, a three-square-kilometer clearing within the park, is particularly rich in gorillas, with 180 western lowland gorillas documented at this single site. Across the broader park, nine monkey species reach densities of 50 individuals per square kilometer, including black-and-white and red colobus, moustached and crowned guenons, and grey-cheeked mangabeys. Chimpanzees inhabit the forest alongside the gorillas, and these two great ape species coexist here in numbers that justify the park's founding purpose. Forest elephants move through the canopy gaps and bais, clearing space that allows other animals to follow. Forest buffalo, leopards, bongos, and blue duikers share the landscape. The park also hosts 300 bird species, and local Ba'Aka legend speaks of a long-necked reptile called Mokele-mbembe that once killed elephants with a massive frontal horn, a story that hints at how deeply this forest is woven into the cultural imagination of the people who know it best.

Eco-Guards and the Ba'Aka

Protection in Nouabale-Ndoki falls to a group of rangers known as eco-guards, operating under the supervision of the Ministry of Forestry Economy and the Environment. Their work has been aided by modern detection technology, a significant improvement over the limited tools available in the park's early years. But the most nuanced form of protection comes from the Ba'Aka communities living along the park's periphery. The Ba'Aka bring generations of forest knowledge to conservation efforts, understanding animal movements, seasonal patterns, and ecological relationships in ways that scientific monitoring is only beginning to replicate. Joint patrols coordinated across the three countries of the Sangha Trinational target poaching, ivory smuggling, and unauthorized fishing. Visitors enter the park only in organized groups led by professional wildlife tour operators, a restriction that limits human impact while generating revenue that funds the very conservation it depends on.

The Weight of International Support

Nouabale-Ndoki has attracted a depth of international backing unusual for a Central African park. The Wildlife Conservation Society manages it directly. Research is supported by USAID, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the Columbus Zoo, and the MacArthur Foundation. The German Cooperation of Technical Collaboration and the WWF contribute to the broader trinational effort. This coalition has built what is now considered not just nationally important but one of Africa's most well-established conservation areas, with trained personnel, substantial funding, and infrastructure that includes research stations and monitoring networks. From the air, the park is indistinguishable from the forest that surrounds it, an unbroken canopy stretching in every direction. That seamlessness is the point. Nouabale-Ndoki works because it remains what it has always been: a forest where humans have never settled, and where the effort now is to ensure they never need to.

From the Air

Located at 2.44N, 16.55E in northern Republic of the Congo. The park covers 3,922 square kilometers of pristine, uninhabited rainforest with no internal roads. The Sangha River forms a navigational reference along the western boundary. Bais appear as small clearings within the canopy. The nearest major airport is Maya-Maya Airport (FCBB) in Brazzaville, far to the south. Charter flights serve the region. Best viewed from 20,000-30,000 feet where the unbroken canopy and absence of roads or settlements distinguish the park from surrounding areas.