Ottawa: The Capital Nobody Visits Except on Business
Ottawa was chosen as Canada's capital in 1857 by Queen Victoria, who selected it partly because it was far enough from the American border to be defensible, partly because it was neither Montreal nor Toronto (and thus wouldn't offend either), and partly because no one cared about it enough to object. The compromise location became a capital that embodies Canadian compromise: bilingual, moderate, institutionally important but culturally quiet. Ottawa is government town - civil servants in towers, lobbyists in suits, politics as primary industry. The city is more interesting than its reputation suggests, but the reputation isn't wrong: Ottawa exists because Canada needed a capital, not because anyone was excited about building one here.
Parliament Hill
The Parliament Buildings sit on a bluff above the Ottawa River - Gothic Revival towers in green copper, the Centre Block anchored by the Peace Tower, its observation deck offering capital views. The original Centre Block burned in 1916; the replacement, completed in 1927, houses the Senate, House of Commons, and the Library of Parliament (the only part of the original to survive). The buildings look properly parliamentary - more Westminster than Washington - and function as both working legislature and national symbol. The grounds host Canada Day celebrations; the changing of the guard ceremonies run each summer morning. Parliament Hill is where Canada governs itself, with appropriate stone solemnity.
The Rideau Canal
The Rideau Canal, built 1826-1832 as a military supply route from Ottawa to Kingston, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, in winter, the world's largest naturally frozen skating rink. The 7.8-kilometer Skateway draws civil servants on lunch breaks, tourists with rental skates, and locals who've skated it since childhood. BeaverTails (fried dough pastries) are sold from stands along the ice; the experience is Canadian as anything gets. In summer, the canal hosts boats rather than skaters, but winter is when it becomes iconic - when the bureaucrats glide to work and the ice reveals Ottawa's unexpected charm.
The Museums
Ottawa's national museums are excellent and often overlooked. The Canadian Museum of History, across the river in Gatineau, occupies a dramatic Douglas Cardinal-designed building with Indigenous history and Canadian Civilization exhibits. The National Gallery of Canada, its distinctive glass towers designed by Moshe Safdie, holds the country's finest art collection. The Canadian War Museum examines conflict through Canadian eyes. The Aviation and Space Museum, the Agriculture and Food Museum, the Nature Museum - Ottawa has museums for most national narratives. The collections justify visits that the city's reputation doesn't invite.
The Bilingualism
Ottawa sits on the Ontario-Quebec border, its downtown on the Ontario side, the Gatineau suburbs on the Quebec side. The federal government is officially bilingual; federal employees must often work in both languages. The practical result is a city where English and French mix more naturally than in Montreal's political tensions or Toronto's English dominance. ByWard Market signs appear in both languages; restaurant menus accommodate both. The bilingualism is sometimes performative - the francophones and anglophones often keep to themselves - but the framework of mutual accommodation shapes Ottawa's character.
Visiting Ottawa
Ottawa is served by Ottawa/Macdonald-Cartier International Airport (YOW). Parliament Hill tours are free; advance booking required. The National Gallery and Museum of History are essential. The ByWard Market offers restaurants, boutiques, and the original Beaver Tail stand. The Rideau Canal Skateway operates January through February, weather permitting; skate rentals are available. Gatineau Park, across the river, offers hiking and skiing. The Château Laurier hotel is a landmark; restaurants throughout the downtown are better than expected. The experience rewards visitors who approach with low expectations - Ottawa is more interesting than its reputation, which is admittedly not a high bar to clear.
From the Air
Located at 45.42°N, 75.70°W at the confluence of the Ottawa, Gatineau, and Rideau Rivers, on the Ontario-Quebec border. From altitude, Ottawa appears as an urban area straddling the provincial boundary - the Parliament Buildings visible on the bluff above the Ottawa River, the Gatineau Hills rising to the north. The Rideau Canal traces through the city center, its frozen surface visible in winter. The pattern of government buildings and suburban development extends outward. What appears from altitude as a mid-sized city at a river junction is Canada's capital - chosen by compromise, defined by government, and more interesting than visitors expect once they actually arrive.