Most of the shell middens along the Western Cape coast are modest affairs -- small accumulations of marine shells with only trace amounts of bone and the occasional bead made from ostrich eggshell. Then there is the Paternoster Midden, 350 meters long and 150 meters wide, a site so far outside the norm that archaeologists classify it as a megamidden. Declared a provincial heritage site in 2009, this sprawling deposit near the fishing village of Paternoster contains one of the richest and most diverse collections of faunal remains and human artifacts ever found along this coastline.
A midden is, at its simplest, a refuse pile -- the accumulated waste of people who lived, ate, and worked in one place over long periods. But what looks like garbage to a casual observer is a library to an archaeologist. The Paternoster Midden, formally known as site PNNA, stands apart from its neighbors because of what its ancient inhabitants threw away. While typical West Coast middens yield mostly marine shells with modest faunal content, this site contains an extraordinary percentage of animal remains. Tortoises, marine birds, snakes, and Cape fur seals are all represented, alongside small and large bovids -- steenbok, grysbok, eland, buffalo, and even the remains of an extra-large bovid alongside elephant bone. The diversity suggests that the people who created this midden were not merely harvesting shellfish from the rocks. They were exploiting the full range of their environment, from the intertidal zone to the inland scrubland.
The variety of species in the midden paints a picture of a coastal community with wide-ranging subsistence strategies. Cape fur seals indicate hunting or scavenging along the shoreline where seal colonies still gather today. The presence of eland and buffalo -- large animals requiring coordinated hunting -- suggests either a sizeable community or extensive trade networks with inland groups. Elephant remains are particularly unusual in a coastal midden and raise questions about whether these people hunted elephants themselves, traded for ivory and meat, or scavenged from natural deaths. Ostrich eggshell beads, found throughout the deposit, point to craft production and possibly exchange with other communities. Each layer of the midden represents a different period of occupation, and together they span thousands of years of human life on this coast.
Heritage Western Cape declared the Paternoster Midden a provincial heritage site on April 9, 2009, under Section 27 of the National Heritage Resources Act, granting it Grade II status. The designation provides legal protection against development, excavation, or disturbance -- important on a stretch of coast where tourism and property development have accelerated in recent decades. The nearby Mussel Point megamidden has received similar protection. Together, these sites anchor the West Coast's claim as one of southern Africa's most significant archaeological landscapes, a place where the deep human past is not buried in caves or locked behind museum glass but lies in the open ground, sometimes within sight of the ocean that sustained the people who left it there.
Located at 32.80S, 17.90E near the village of Paternoster on the West Coast of South Africa. The midden site lies in the coastal zone near the village, visible as a slightly elevated, discolored area of ground. Best viewed at 1,500-3,000 ft AGL. Nearest airports: Cape Town International (FACT) approximately 130 km southeast. The fishing village of Paternoster and the Cape Columbine lighthouse are nearby visual landmarks. The coastline here is rugged with white sandy beaches between rocky outcrops.