Le Pâté formation on Pie Island, as seen from Mt. McKay, Thunder Bay District, Ontario, Canada
Le Pâté formation on Pie Island, as seen from Mt. McKay, Thunder Bay District, Ontario, Canada

Pie Island

islandsnatural-landmarkshistoryindigenous-culture
4 min read

The French traders who navigated Lake Superior's north shore looked at the island's flat-topped mesa and saw a meat pie with a crust. They called it Le Pate, and the English name -- Pie Island -- stuck. It is an oddly whimsical name for a place shaped by some of the most serious forces in Canadian history: silver fever, treaty promises, and a land claim that took over a century to resolve. Sitting in Lake Superior south of Thunder Bay and north of Isle Royale, Michigan, the island is readily visible from the city's shoreline and high points, its distinctive silhouette a constant presence on the horizon.

A Mesa in the Lake

Le Pate, the westernmost mesa on Pie Island, is also its highest point. Formed by a diabase sill -- the same type of volcanic intrusion that shaped much of the region's dramatic geology -- the mesa is cliffed on all sides. Its top is mostly flat but slopes near the edges, cut by gullies that drain into the surrounding forest. Because the island is largely inaccessible to regular human traffic and the climb to the mesa top is genuinely difficult, vegetation has been left to mature undisturbed. Wind governs everything up there: the height of the trees, the shape of the shrubs, the direction the branches grow. It is a place where geology and weather have collaborated for millennia without much human interference, creating an ecosystem that exists almost entirely on its own terms.

Silver Dreams and Hay Fields

In the 19th century, Pie Island drew prospectors hunting for silver. Algoma Member of Parliament Simon James Dawson operated a mine on the island. Augustine W. Daby of Massachusetts took charge of the Pie Island Silver Mining Company in July 1881, but the venture ended badly -- the operation was sold by sheriff in February 1884 and again in November 1885. John McKellar also tried his luck mining there. Not everyone came for silver, though. Lawyer Francis Henry Keefer, Daby's son-in-law, and his brother Thomas Keefer established a farm on the island where they grew hay as early as 1888. Today, Keefer Point and Dawson Bay preserve the names of these politicians-turned-islanders, geographic reminders of an era when ambition outpaced the island's willingness to yield its riches.

The Light on the North Point

A lighthouse was established on Pie Island in 1895, originally placed at the western end to guide shipping through Lake Superior's treacherous waters. But the location proved inadequate. In July 1904, the Dominion government moved the lighthouse to the island's north point, where its beam could be seen from a greater distance. The light served mariners for decades, a solitary beacon on an island that was otherwise mostly uninhabited. By 1953, the lighthouse had been abandoned. It stood empty and deteriorating for more than half a century before being demolished in the summer of 2010. Today, a simple light on a five-metre skeletal tower marks the spot -- functional but without the romance of the original structure.

A Promise Fulfilled

Pie Island's most significant story is one of patience. When the Robinson Treaty of 1850 allocated reserve lands to the Fort William First Nation, the government surveyor recommended in 1853 that Pie Island be included as part of the reserve. His recommendation was never acted upon. For over 150 years, the island remained in limbo. Negotiations between Canada, Ontario, and the Fort William First Nation finally began in 2000 and concluded in December 2011. Ontario transferred provincial Crown land on both Pie Island and nearby Flatland Island to the First Nation, including the 250-hectare Le Pate Provincial Nature Reserve. Chief Peter Collins called the settlement a fulfillment of the Treaty of 1850's original promises, saying the land and resources would create businesses, employment, and opportunities benefiting both the First Nation and the entire Thunder Bay area. The privately owned cottages on the island's southern tip were not subject to the claim and remain in private hands.

Island Ward to Island Home

When the Ontario Legislature created a municipality in 1873 to govern settlements around Thunder Bay, Pie Island was folded into the Municipality of Shuniah as part of Island Ward. For over sixty years, this remote island in Lake Superior was technically a municipal ward -- a bureaucratic oddity for a place with almost no permanent residents. In 1936, the Legislature abolished Island Ward at the municipality's request. Today, a handful of summer cottages still dot the island's southern tip, their owners arriving by boat during the warm months and departing before the lake freezes. But the island's identity has shifted. It is no longer a ward, a mining claim, or an overlooked treaty obligation. It belongs, at last, to the people who fished its surrounding waters and called the broader territory home long before anyone thought to name it after a meat pie.

From the Air

Pie Island sits at 48.24°N, 89.10°W in Lake Superior, clearly visible as a distinct mesa-topped landmass south of Thunder Bay. The island's flat-topped Le Pate mesa is its most recognizable feature from the air -- look for the cliff-edged plateau rising above the tree line. Flatland Island lies to the southeast. Isle Royale, Michigan is visible further south. Nearest major airport is Thunder Bay International (CYQT), approximately 15 nm north-northwest. Best viewed at 2,000-4,000 ft AGL to appreciate the mesa formation and the island's relationship to the Thunder Bay shoreline. The island serves as a useful visual navigation waypoint for coastal flying along Lake Superior's north shore.