The deed was written in Jan Gerritze Bantjes' careful hand, dated 4 February 1838. It ceded the land between the Tugela River and Port St. Johns to the Voortrekkers. Two days later, King Dingane signed it. Then he invited Piet Retief's party to watch his soldiers perform. What happened next would reverberate through South African history for two centuries: Dingane ordered his warriors to seize the entire delegation, and approximately 100 people, including Retief and his son, were marched to the hillside called Kwa-Matiwane and killed. The signed deed was still in Retief's leather pouch when his body was recovered ten months later.
To understand what happened at Mgungundlovu, you have to see it through Dingane's eyes as well as Retief's. By early 1838, the Zulu king had watched the Voortrekkers, Boer settlers migrating northeast from the Cape Colony during the Great Trek, push deep into the interior. They had recently driven the Ndebele king Mzilikazi from the Transvaal through military conquest. Retief himself had written to Dingane about the Ndebele expulsion, letters that read as diplomacy but could easily be taken as veiled threats. The Voortrekkers wanted permanent boundaries for a Natal settlement, and they arrived at the Zulu capital with guns, horses, and a recent record of displacing African kingdoms. Dingane held a land that he believed was divinely inherited. Historians generally agree that the attack was premeditated: it is unlikely Dingane ever intended to cede territory through a treaty he considered meaningless. He saw the Voortrekker presence as an invasion, and he feared sharing Mzilikazi's fate.
Retief left the upper Tugela region on 28 January 1838, despite warnings, convinced he could negotiate with Dingane. He met the king at Mgungundlovu and learned that negotiations required a gesture of good faith: returning cattle stolen by the Batlokwa chief Sekonyela. Retief recovered the cattle and brought a portion of the herd back. On 6 February, Dingane put his mark on the deed of cession for the Tugela-Umzimvubu region, with three witnesses on each side. It appeared the deal was done. Dingane then invited the Voortrekker delegation to a special military display. During the performance, the king rose to his feet and shouted the order to seize them. Retief's party and their servants, about 100 people in all, were disarmed and dragged to the execution hill. Dingane ordered Retief killed last, forcing him to witness the deaths of all his companions. Their bodies were left on Kwa-Matiwane for vultures and scavengers, following Dingane's custom for enemies.
The killing did not end at Mgungundlovu. Dingane immediately directed Zulu impis against Voortrekker encampments scattered across Natal, catching families who had no warning of what had happened at the royal kraal. The attack on the camp at Bloukrans was particularly devastating. In what became known as the Weenen massacre, named for the Afrikaans word for weeping, approximately 534 people were killed -- around 282 Voortrekker men, women, and children along with 252 Khoikhoi and Basuto servants who traveled with the encampments. The Great Trek, already a desperate migration driven by grievances against British colonial rule, was plunged into crisis. Families who had traveled hundreds of miles by ox wagon into unfamiliar territory now faced a hostile kingdom with no leader, no treaty, and no safe ground. The violence of February 1838 hardened both sides. The Voortrekkers regrouped under Andries Pretorius with a determination that would culminate ten months later at the Ncome River.
On 16 December 1838, Pretorius led a commando of 464 Voortrekkers against a Zulu army at what they would call the Battle of Blood River. The Voortrekkers fought from a laager of wagons and inflicted devastating casualties with their firearms. After the victory, Pretorius' commando marched to Mgungundlovu and recovered the remains of the Retief party. They buried them on 21 December 1838. Bantjes, Retief's former secretary and now Pretorius', recorded the campaign in what became known as the Bantjes Journal. From Retief's leather pouch they recovered the undamaged deed of cession, the document that Dingane had signed and then rendered moot with murder. Two copies of the deed survive, though legend holds that the original was lost in transit to the Netherlands during the Anglo-Boer War decades later. The site of Retief's grave was essentially forgotten until 1896, when J. H. Hattingh, a surviving member of Pretorius' commando, pointed it out.
A monument recording the names of Retief's delegation was erected near the grave site in 1922. It stands in a landscape of rolling KwaZulu-Natal hills where sugar cane now grows on land that was once the contested frontier between two peoples who could not find a way to share it. The massacre at Mgungundlovu is one of those events in South African history that has been told very differently depending on who tells it. For generations of Afrikaners, Retief was a martyr and Dingane a treacherous villain. For Zulu historians, Dingane was a king defending his people against armed settlers who had already conquered one African kingdom and would inevitably conquer his. Neither framing captures the full human reality: that 100 people were killed after placing their trust in a negotiation, and that the killing unleashed a cycle of retaliatory violence that consumed hundreds more lives on both sides. From the air, the hills near Mgungundlovu look peaceful. The violence that soaked into this ground shaped a nation. It has not finished shaping it.
Coordinates: 28.43°S, 31.27°E, in the hilly interior of KwaZulu-Natal near the site of Dingane's former capital Mgungundlovu. From 5,000 feet AGL, the rolling green hills and river valleys of Zululand are visible. The Tugela River lies to the south. Nearest airports: Ulundi (FAUL), approximately 15 nm to the southeast; Richards Bay (FARB), about 60 nm to the east. The terrain is hilly grassland with scattered settlements. Summer thunderstorms are common.