Polonnaruwa Vatadage: The Circular Shrine That Two Kings Claimed

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4 min read

When the British archaeologist H.C.P. Bell arrived at the site in 1903, he found only a mound of earth. Centuries of jungle growth had swallowed the structure entirely, erasing it from living memory and the historical chronicles. What emerged from that mound as excavation progressed was the finest example of a vatadage - a circular relic house - anywhere in Sri Lanka. Two concentric stone platforms, four seated Buddha figures oriented to the cardinal directions, moonstones and guard stones of unsurpassed quality, and the remains of sixty-eight stone columns that once supported a wooden roof. The Polonnaruwa Vatadage had been buried so completely that even its builder was a matter of dispute.

A Question of Kings

Who built the Vatadage? The Culavamsa, an ancient chronicle, records that Parakramabahu I constructed a circular stone shrine to house the Tooth Relic of the Buddha during his twelfth-century reign. Bell believed this description matched the Vatadage. But the Rajavaliya and Poojavaliya, other historical texts, credit the structure to Nissanka Malla, who ruled from 1187 to 1196. A stone inscription Nissanka Malla placed nearby claims the Vatadage as his work, built by one of his generals under royal direction. The archaeologist Arthur Maurice Hocart proposed a compromise that most scholars now accept: Parakramabahu I built the original structure, and Nissanka Malla renovated it, adding the entrance and outer porch. Wilhelm Geiger, translator of the Mahavamsa, and historian H.W. Codrington agreed. The Vatadage, then, is the work of two kings - one who built it and one who claimed it.

Circles Within Circles

The architecture is organized around concentricity. A circular lower platform, 120 feet in diameter, admits visitors through a single northern entrance. From there, four elaborately constructed doorways - oriented north, south, east, and west - lead to the upper platform, 80 feet across and surrounded by a two-foot-thick brick wall. At the center sits a small stupa with a base diameter of 27 feet, the sacred object the entire structure was designed to protect. Around this stupa, four Buddha statues sit facing the four entrances, each five feet tall on two-foot stone seats, hands in the Dhyana mudra of meditation. Three concentric rings of stone columns once filled the upper platform: an inner ring of 16, a middle ring of 20, and an outer ring of 32. The outer columns, about eight feet tall, are all that substantially remain. Each column base is carved in the shape of a lotus flower.

The Moonstones and Guard Stones

If the Vatadage's architecture impresses through geometry and scale, its carvings achieve something more intimate. The sandakada pahana - moonstone - at the northern entrance is widely considered the finest example of this uniquely Sri Lankan architectural element. These semicircular carved stones, placed at the threshold of sacred buildings, depict the cycle of samsara through concentric bands of flames, animals, and lotus flowers. Visitors literally step over the cycle of suffering to enter a holy space. At the eastern entrance, two muragalas - guard stones - stand watch, among the best of their kind from the Polonnaruwa period. Bell, who spent years excavating here, wrote that the carvings on the upper platform are 'unrivalled, whether at Anuradhapura or Polonnaruwa, and probably in any other Buddhist shrine of Ceylon.' The judgment has held.

Buried and Found

After Kalinga Magha's invasion in 1215, Polonnaruwa was abandoned. The Sinhalese court moved south, and the great dry zone capital vanished into vegetation. The Vatadage disappears from the chronicles entirely - no pilgrimages, no repairs, no mentions. For nearly seven hundred years, the finest circular shrine in Sri Lanka existed only as a wooded hillock. When Bell began digging in 1903, the structure that emerged was remarkably intact. The brick wall still stood. Two of the four Buddha figures were largely whole, carved from solid rock and heavy enough that even the jungle could not dislodge them. The moonstones and guard stones survived beneath their blanket of earth. Today the Vatadage anchors the Sacred Quadrangle of Polonnaruwa's ruins, the building that best demonstrates what Sinhalese architecture could achieve - and how thoroughly time can erase even the most sacred places.

From the Air

Located at 7.947°N, 81.001°E within the ancient city of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka's North Central Province. The Vatadage sits in the Sacred Quadrangle (Dalada Maluwa), a raised terrace of religious buildings visible as a concentrated cluster of structures north of the modern town. The large Parakrama Samudra reservoir is the dominant aerial landmark to the west. Flat dry zone terrain with scattered forest. Nearest airport is China Bay at Trincomalee (VCCT) approximately 100 km north. Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport (VCBI/CMB) is approximately 220 km southwest. The circular footprint of the Vatadage may be distinguishable at lower altitudes.