On May 5, 1862, 4,500 Mexican soldiers under General Ignacio Zaragoza defeated 6,000 French troops at the forts of Loreto and Guadalupe overlooking Puebla. The French, who hadn't lost a battle in 50 years, expected easy victory; the Mexicans, whose army was smaller and poorly equipped, expected to lose. The surprise victory inspired Mexican resistance and delayed French conquest by a year. The French eventually captured Puebla in 1863 and installed Emperor Maximilian, who was executed when the French withdrew. Cinco de Mayo is now celebrated more in the United States than in Mexico, where it's a regional holiday rather than national fiesta.

Talavera tiles cover Puebla - the churches, the buildings, the kitchen backsplashes, the fountains. The tradition came from Spain via Talavera de la Reina, modified with Mexican colors and motifs, protected now by denomination of origin that limits 'Talavera' to tiles made in the Puebla region using traditional methods. The iconic blue-and-white tiles are everywhere, but red, yellow, and green variations add color throughout the city. The Casa del Alfeñique, covered entirely in white stucco that looks like wedding cake frosting, represents Puebla's decorative enthusiasm at its peak. The tiles make Puebla visually distinctive, the surfaces alive with pattern and color.

Mole poblano - the rich, dark, chocolate-touched sauce served over turkey or chicken - was allegedly invented by nuns at the Convent of Santa Rosa in the 17th century, preparing for a visit by the archbishop. Whether the origin story is true matters less than the result: mole poblano became Mexico's national dish, the celebration food served at weddings and holidays, the complex sauce that takes days to prepare properly. Puebla claims mole as its invention and chiles en nogada (stuffed poblano peppers in walnut cream sauce, decorated to represent the Mexican flag) as its other signature. The food reputation is earned.

Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl rise to the west of Puebla - Popo still active, smoking regularly, occasionally requiring evacuation alerts. The volcanoes appear in every view of the city, snow-capped in winter, disappearing into haze on smoggy days. Aztec legend says they're star-crossed lovers: Iztaccíhuatl died of grief believing Popocatépetl had died in battle; he guards her body still. The volcanoes are climbable (except when Popo is too active); the views from Iztaccíhuatl's summit (17,160 feet) include Mexico City 40 miles west. The volcanoes make Puebla dramatic in ways that flatter colonial cities aren't.

Puebla is served by Hermanos Serdán International Airport (PBC), though many visitors arrive by bus from Mexico City (2 hours). The Zócalo and cathedral are the center of colonial Puebla; the churches are everywhere. The Museo Amparo offers pre-Columbian and colonial art in a stunning building. The forts of Loreto and Guadalupe, site of the Cinco de Mayo battle, are now museums. Talavera workshops offer demonstrations and shopping. For food, mole poblano and chiles en nogada are essential; cemitas (Puebla's signature sandwich) are everywhere. The weather is spring-like year-round at 7,000 feet elevation. The colonial center is walkable; the city beyond requires transport.