The track begins at Meretoto / Ship Cove, the bay where Captain James Cook anchored during his voyages to the Pacific, and ends 70 kilometers south at Anakiwa. Most trampers walk it in three to five days, though mountain bikers can cover the distance in about 13 hours, typically split over two days. The route follows clay trails through native bush, crossing bridges over every major stream, and passes both Department of Conservation campsites and private lodges. Boat services from Picton provide access to multiple points along the track, making day walks practical for those who prefer to tackle a single section. Resolution Bay, Endeavour Inlet, Camp Bay, and Mistletoe Bay all serve as embarkation points.

What makes the Queen Charlotte Track distinctive among New Zealand's great walks is its geography. The trail follows a narrow ridge between two parallel sounds, which means the views alternate constantly. One moment you look north across Queen Charlotte Sound's island-studded waters toward Cook Strait; the next, you drop to a saddle and Kenepuru Sound opens to the south, more sheltered and intimate. The highest point reaches 470 meters, enough elevation to see both waterways simultaneously on clear days. The native bush transitions as you climb, from coastal species near the bays to beech forest along the ridgeline, and birdsong fills the canopy throughout.

Since 2013, the Queen Charlotte Track has doubled as one of New Zealand's Great Rides, part of the national cycle trail network. Mountain bikers share the track with walkers for most of its length, though the section from Meretoto / Ship Cove to Kenepuru Saddle closes to bikes from December through February to protect the trail surface and reduce conflict during peak summer tramping season. The rest of the year, riders tackle the same ridgeline route, navigating clay surfaces that can turn slick after rain. The combination of elevation changes, technical terrain, and coastal scenery has made it one of the country's most sought-after backcountry rides.

Unlike many of New Zealand's tramping tracks, the Queen Charlotte Track crosses significant stretches of private land. Between Kenepuru Saddle and just past Mistletoe Bay, walkers and bikers must carry a pass issued by the Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative. The fees fund track maintenance and ensure continued public access across private holdings, an arrangement that reflects the collaborative relationship between landowners and the Department of Conservation. Side tracks branch off to hidden bays like Miriту Bay and Lochmara Bay, where the only accommodation is accessible by water. August 2022 storms damaged road access to several points along the track, making boat transfers even more essential.

The Queen Charlotte Track teaches a particular rhythm. You rise early, walk a ridgeline section in the morning light, descend to a bay for lunch, and wait for the water taxi to carry your pack to the next stop. Or you carry everything yourself and camp at a DOC site where the only sounds are bellbirds and the lap of water against a gravel shore. Either way, the track strips away the urgency of the road. There is no cell service on much of the route, no shortcut between the sounds. The only way through is on foot or pedal, one ridge at a time, with the water always visible on both sides and the bush closing overhead like a green tunnel.