Leonard Knight came to the desert in 1984 with a plan to fly a hot air balloon painted with 'GOD IS LOVE' over America. The balloon never flew properly; after years of failed attempts, Knight started building a mountain instead. He wasn't an artist. He wasn't trained in construction. He was a Vermont-born Korean War veteran who'd found Jesus at 35 and never stopped talking about it. The first version of Salvation Mountain collapsed after four years of work. Knight rebuilt it, this time using adobe and straw mixed with donated paint. He didn't ask for money, just paint. People brought it by the truckload. The mountain grew.

Salvation Mountain is held together by faith and latex paint. Knight developed his own construction technique: mixing adobe, straw, and paint into a cement-like substance that hardens in the desert heat. He worked alone, mostly, painting from dawn until the heat drove him into shade. The mountain features a yellow brick road leading to the summit, painted trees, a painted waterfall, Biblical verses covering every surface, and caves decorated with found objects. There's no plan, no blueprint - Knight built what he felt like building, painted what he felt like painting. The result is chaos that somehow coheres, a monument to one man's unwavering certainty.

In 1994, Imperial County declared Salvation Mountain a toxic nightmare. The lead-based paint Knight had used for years contaminated the site, officials claimed, and the mountain should be demolished. Folk art scholars rushed to its defense. The Folk Art Society of America declared it a 'national treasure.' Senator Barbara Boxer entered its defense into the Congressional Record. Tests showed the lead levels were actually safe. The mountain survived. Knight kept painting, switching to donated latex paint, transforming criticism into vindication. The county that tried to destroy his life's work eventually listed it as a tourist attraction.

Leonard Knight painted until he couldn't anymore. In 2011, at 80, dementia and physical decline forced him to leave the desert. He died in 2014. But Salvation Mountain didn't die with him. Volunteers now maintain the site, applying fresh paint, repairing weather damage, preserving Knight's vision. The mountain appears in films, music videos, and countless Instagram feeds - its weird beauty perfectly suited to an age of shareable images. Some visitors come for the art. Some come for the message. Some come for the photos. Knight would have welcomed all of them. God is love, after all.

Salvation Mountain is located near Niland, California, just east of the Salton Sea and adjacent to Slab City. There's no admission fee - Knight never charged, and the volunteers who maintain it don't either. The site is open 24 hours, though visiting during daylight is recommended. Bring water; this is harsh desert with no services nearby. The mountain is fragile - don't climb on areas marked as off-limits. Photography is encouraged; the colors are most vivid in morning or late afternoon light. Slab City, the off-grid community next door, offers its own surreal experience. The nearest services are in Niland (basic) or El Centro (full services, 30 miles south). Visit in winter or early spring; summer temperatures exceed 110°F.