De Sassenpoort te Zwolle
De Sassenpoort te Zwolle

Sassenpoort

Rijksmonuments in OverijsselBuildings and structures in ZwolleGatehouses (architecture)Buildings and structures completed in 1409
4 min read

Count the coats of arms in the stained glass and you reach thirteen. There should be fourteen. Somewhere along the way, the arms of the Ridderschap Overijssel, the knighthood of the province, slipped out of the Sassenpoort and never came back. The best guess places the missing window in what is now a small kitchen. The other thirteen are still there, lit by Zwolle morning sun: Deventer, Kampen, Enschede, Hasselt, Steenwijk, and the rest. They were installed when this gate still stood at the working edge of a Hanseatic city, when the towers above held machicolations through which boiling oil could in theory be poured on attackers, and when the year was 1409.

The Last Gate Standing

Zwolle once had a full set of medieval city gates. The Sassenpoort, the Saxon Gate, is the only one that survived into the present. Its name points east, toward the Saxon-speaking lands beyond the city, where the road through this gate led. It was built in 1409 from dimension stone hauled in for the purpose, mostly trachyte and tuff. Both are volcanic rocks quarried in the Eifel hills of Germany and shipped down the Rhine and IJssel, a luxury choice that signaled wealth. More than a century earlier, in 1294, Zwolle had joined the Hanseatic League, the trading confederation that ran the medieval North Sea and Baltic economy. A heavy gate in expensive imported stone was a way of announcing arrival.

Boiling Oil and a Clock Tower

Between the gate's two corner towers runs a projecting platform called a machicolation, a defensive feature with openings in the floor through which defenders could drop heavy or burning things on whoever stood below. Whether anyone ever actually poured boiling oil here is unrecorded, but the architecture made the threat credible. By the 1890s the threat was long gone and the building was beginning to look its age. Between 1893 and 1898 the city restored it heavily, fitting dormers into the roof and replacing the 18th-century spire with a new Neo-Gothic clock tower. That spire still rises above central Zwolle today. Most photographs of the gate frame it as a single object, but in person the tower's vertical lift is the first thing you notice.

Archive, Monument, Pedestrian Way

In 1893, at the start of that restoration, the city handed the gate over to the Dutch national government, which used it for many years as a storage depot for the national archives. The state still owns it. On 13 February 1967 the building was declared a rijksmonument, one of the country's official protected monuments, and it sits in the elite Top 100 of Dutch heritage sites. The classification places it in category I, reserved for monuments considered of extraordinary historical importance. In 2010, to stop exhaust fumes from eating away at the stone, traffic was banned from passing under the arch. Today the gate functions as a pedestrian thoroughfare, walked through daily by people who likely register the medieval mass above their heads only in passing.

In Glass and on Stamps

The thirteen surviving coats of arms read like an index of the medieval Overijssel polity. Delden, Deventer, Enschede, Genemuiden, Hasselt, Kampen, Oldenzaal, Ootmarsum, Steenwijk, Vollenhove, and Zwolle itself, along with the arms of the Netherlands and of Overijssel province. They are the towns that mattered, and the powers above them. The missing fourteenth, the knighthood's arms, would have completed a kind of constitutional portrait of late-medieval Overijssel. In 2006 the Dutch post office TPG Post issued a stamp in its Mooi Nederland series featuring the gate, a small modern endorsement of what is by some distance the most photographed silhouette in central Zwolle.

From the Air

The Sassenpoort stands at 52.510N, 6.095E, at the southeastern edge of Zwolle's medieval center in Overijssel province. From the air the gate is identifiable by its tall Neo-Gothic spire rising above the surrounding old town and by its position on the line of the former city wall, now traced by a ring of green parkland and water. Zwolle Central Station lies a short walk south. The IJssel river runs west of the city. Closest small airfields are Lelystad (EHLE) southwest and Groningen Eelde (EHGG) north. Schiphol (EHAM) is about 110 km west. Best identified at low altitude in clear conditions when the spire's shadow falls across the surrounding rooftops.