Schofield Barracks

military-historyworld-war-iihawaiipopular-culture
4 min read

James Jones set his 1951 novel From Here to Eternity here -- the story of soldiers drinking, fighting, loving, and dying in the months before Pearl Harbor. The film version, with Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr in the surf, won eight Academy Awards. But the real Schofield Barracks is not a set that got struck after filming. It is a working Army post of 17,725 acres on central Oahu, home to nearly 15,000 people, where the 25th Infantry Division has been stationed since 1941 and where soldiers still run Kolekole Pass at dawn the way their predecessors did eight decades ago.

A General's Recommendation

The post takes its name from Lieutenant General John McAllister Schofield, who served as Commanding General of the United States Army from 1888 to 1895. In 1872, Schofield had been sent to Hawaii on a reconnaissance mission, and he returned with a recommendation that would shape the archipelago's military future: the United States should establish a naval base at Pearl Harbor. The Army established the post in 1908 on the central Oahu plateau, adjacent to the town of Wahiawa, with a specific tactical purpose -- providing mobile defense for Pearl Harbor and the entire island. Lake Wilson, also known as Wahiawa Reservoir, separates the installation from most of the town. The oldest barracks quadrangles, designated B and C Quads, date to the 1910s, built in a style that has more in common with a university campus than a forward operating base.

Tropic Lightning

The 25th Infantry Division arrived at Schofield Barracks in 1941 and never left. Nicknamed "Tropic Lightning" for the bolt on its shoulder patch, the division has deployed from this Hawaiian base to every major American conflict since World War II -- Korea, Vietnam, Afghanistan, and Iraq. Four statues on the post comprise the 25th Infantry Division Memorial, each representing a different era of service, with the first unveiled in June 2005. Schofield also serves as headquarters for United States Army Hawaii and hosts an array of supporting units, including the 8th Military Police Brigade, the 500th Military Intelligence Brigade, and the 130th Engineer Brigade. The post is, in effect, a small city: it has its own schools, commissary, post exchange, bowling alley, library, and privatized housing areas with wait times that can stretch to a year for larger homes.

The Pass and the Cross

Kolekole Road winds through the enlisted housing area and up to Kolekole Pass, a saddle in the Waianae Range that connects Schofield Barracks to Lualualei Naval Magazine on the leeward coast. The pass is both a practical vehicle route and a ritual of Army life -- soldiers use the steep climb as a physical training run, the kind of shared misery that builds unit cohesion. For decades, a 37-foot, 35-ton steel cross stood at the summit, erected with public tax dollars in 1962. In 1997, Hawaii Citizens for the Separation of State and Church filed a federal lawsuit calling it a "blatant and obvious violation" of the First Amendment. The Army dismantled it. The episode is a small but revealing piece of the ongoing negotiation between the military's traditions and the constitutional principles it exists to defend.

Oahu's Other Hollywood

Beyond From Here to Eternity, Schofield Barracks and its surroundings have served as a recurring backdrop for American film and television. The 1970 epic Tora! Tora! Tora!, 20th Century Fox's meticulous recreation of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, used the post's period-appropriate architecture and central Oahu landscape. CBS's Tour of Duty, a Vietnam War series that ran from 1987 to 1990, also filmed extensively in the area, taking advantage of Hawaii's tropical vegetation as a stand-in for Southeast Asia. The barracks' quadrangle layout, designed in the 1910s and 1930s, provides a visual continuity that Hollywood keeps coming back to -- it looks like what Americans imagine a military post should look like, because it is what many of them actually looked like.

From the Air

Located at 21.50N, 158.06W on central Oahu's plateau between the Ko'olau and Waianae ranges. The installation's distinctive quadrangle barracks and surrounding housing areas are clearly visible from altitude. Wheeler Army Airfield is immediately adjacent to the south. Kolekole Pass in the Waianae Range is visible as a saddle to the west. Nearest major airport is Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (PHNL), approximately 15 nautical miles to the southeast. Wheeler Army Airfield (PHHI) is directly adjacent. Best viewed at 3,000-5,000 feet AGL.