Happy Are Those Who Die Young

activismindonesiabiographyjakartahistory
4 min read

"Happy are those who die young." Soe Hok Gie wrote those words in his diary, attributing them to an anonymous Greek philosopher. He was in his twenties, a student at the University of Indonesia, already a veteran of street protests against two successive dictatorships. On 16 December 1969, one day before his 27th birthday, he hiked up Mount Semeru in East Java and never came back down alive. Poisonous volcanic gas killed him near the summit. The diary entry reads less like philosophy now and more like premonition.

A Family of Words and Dissent

Soe Hok Gie was born on 17 December 1942 in Jakarta, the fourth of five children in a Chinese Indonesian family steeped in literature and politics. His father, Soe Lie Piet, was a literary writer and magazine editor. His elder brother, Arief Budiman, became a sociologist at Satya Wacana Christian University and a persistent thorn in the side of Indonesian authoritarianism. The family was ethnic Chinese and Roman Catholic -- double minorities in a country where both identities could invite suspicion. Soe attended Kanisius, a Jesuit high school in Jakarta, before enrolling at the University of Indonesia in 1962. He would spend the rest of his short life there, first as a student, then as a lecturer in the history department. The university shaped him, but it was the streets that made him dangerous to those in power.

Writing Against Two Dictators

What made Soe unusual was his refusal to pick sides along the ideological lines that split Indonesian politics in the 1960s. He opposed Sukarno's drift toward authoritarianism and the growing influence of the Communist Party of Indonesia, the PKI. When Suharto seized power in the aftermath of the 30 September Movement in 1965, Soe did not fall in line behind the new regime either. He became one of the few public voices willing to criticize both. His weapon was the written word. Articles poured out under his name in Kompas, Sinar Harapan, Harian Kami, Mahasiswa Indonesia, and Indonesia Raya -- newspapers that formed the narrow space for critical thought in an era of tightening control. His university thesis, published as Di Bawah Lantera Merah (Under the Red Lantern), examined the PKI's influence. His diary, published posthumously in 1983 as Catatan Seorang Demonstran (Annotations of a Demonstrator), revealed a mind grappling with politics, nature, and mortality in equal measure.

The Mountain and the Open Air

Soe quoted Walt Whitman in his diary: "Now I see the secret of the making of the best person. It is to grow in the open air and to eat and sleep with the earth." This was not affectation. In 1965, amid the political turmoil that convulsed Indonesia, Soe helped found Mapala UI, the University of Indonesia's student nature-lovers' organization. He hiked compulsively, drawn to Java's volcanic ridges and forests the way other activists were drawn to podiums. Mount Semeru, the highest peak on Java at 3,676 meters, was the kind of place that called to him -- remote, physically demanding, indifferent to politics. On 16 December 1969, Soe and a group of companions ascended toward the summit. Volcanic gases, invisible and odorless in sufficient concentration, overtook them near the top. Soe died there, on the mountain, one day short of turning 27. His body was brought back to Jakarta and buried in the old Dutch colonial cemetery at Kebon Jahe Kober, now known as Museum Taman Prasasti in Central Jakarta.

The Afterlife of a Dissident

Death at 26 would have silenced most voices permanently. Soe's grew louder. His diary circulated in student circles for over a decade before its formal publication in 1983, becoming a touchstone for young Indonesians chafing under Suharto's New Order regime. In 1997, Australian scholar John Maxwell published Soe Hok-Gie: Diary of a Young Indonesian Intellectual, introducing his story to an English-speaking audience. The book was translated into Indonesian in 2001. Then came the film. In 2005, director Riri Riza released Gie, starring Nicholas Saputra, and Soe's face -- or rather Saputra's version of it -- became iconic for a generation that had never known the man. His collected articles were compiled by Stanley and Aris Santoso and republished as Zaman Peralihan (Transition Era). Today Soe is remembered as something Indonesia has always needed and rarely tolerated: a conscience that refused to be partisan, a writer who valued honesty over alignment, and a young man who took Whitman's advice about the open air perhaps one expedition too literally.

From the Air

Soe Hok Gie is buried at Museum Taman Prasasti (6.172S, 106.819E) in Central Jakarta, a former Dutch colonial cemetery. The museum is located near Merdeka Square, with the National Monument (Monas) visible roughly 700 meters to the east. Mount Semeru, where Soe died, is located in East Java at approximately 8.108S, 112.922E, roughly 800 km southeast of Jakarta. Nearest major airport to Jakarta is Soekarno-Hatta International (WIII), approximately 25 km northwest. For Mount Semeru, the nearest airport is Abdul Rachman Saleh (WARA) near Malang.