Hides Hotel in Cairns, ca 1937.
Originally constructed in 1885, Hides Hotel is situated on the corner of Lake and Sheilds Street.
Hides Hotel in Cairns, ca 1937. Originally constructed in 1885, Hides Hotel is situated on the corner of Lake and Sheilds Street.

SS Suffolk (1899)

shipwreckmaritimehistoryBoer War
4 min read

At 3:20 in the morning on September 24, 1900, the Second Officer of the SS Suffolk heard breakers. He put the helm hard to port. It was too late. The ship struck rocks off Tsitsikamma Point, near Cape St. Francis, and within twelve hours she had sunk, taking 930 horses to the bottom. The horses had been loaded at Fiume in Austria-Hungary -- modern-day Rijeka, Croatia -- bound for the 10th Hussars in South Africa, where the Second Boer War was entering its grinding guerrilla phase. The crew and the 66 hostlers who tended the animals all survived. Not a single horse did.

Built for Cold Cargo

The Suffolk was a product of the industrial north of England. Launched on July 25, 1899, from the Sunderland Shipbuilding Company at South Dock on the River Wear, she was completed by November and sailed her sea trials on the 20th. Her steel hull was built on the deep-frame principle, with cellular water ballast tanks fore and aft. J & E Hall supplied her refrigeration equipment, which used compressed carbon dioxide to cool portions of her number 2, 3, and 4 holds, insulated with mineral wool and chilled with brine. Her refrigerated capacity was enough for 130,000 carcasses of mutton. She also carried passengers in first- and second-class berths, and for cargo handling she had ten steam winches and numerous derricks. A three-cylinder triple-expansion engine, built by the North Eastern Marine Engineering Company in Wallsend, drove her single screw.

A Maiden Voyage Around the World

Suffolk's first voyage was a circumnavigation of commerce. She left Sunderland in November 1899 loaded with frozen game, 3,200 tons of steel rails, and general cargo, reaching Fremantle in February 1900 after averaging 11 knots. In Western Australia she discharged steel plate for a water project at Coolgardie and cable to be laid between Cottesloe and Rottnest Island. Carpenters in port fitted her upper cargo decks to carry 800 horses. She steamed to Queensland, loaded frozen meat and wool at Gladstone and Broadmount, then continued to Brisbane and Sydney. At Broadmount she made minor history: she was the first ship to load frozen meat from refrigerator cars brought by rail, eliminating the old method of sending it downriver by tender. A special passenger train carried businesspeople from Archer Creek to watch the operation. She delivered her horses to South Africa and returned to London by late July.

The Second Voyage

For her second trip, Suffolk left London on August 10, 1900, and reached Fiume on August 22 to embark horses for the war. She could take only 930 of the 1,000 intended. Sixty-three crew, 66 hostlers, and a veterinary surgeon rounded out the complement. She bunkered at Tenerife, called at Cape Town on September 22, and continued the same day for Port Elizabeth. At 4:40 the next morning she passed 11 nautical miles off Cape Agulhas. Captain Cuthbert changed course twice, but the fixes were wrong. He had failed to account for the strong currents that run along this stretch of coast. Through the night of September 23-24, no one verified the ship's position. No soundings were taken. Second Officer Charles Stokes was inexplicably absent from the bridge in the critical minutes before the grounding.

Rocks and Ruin

When the Suffolk struck the rocks off Tsitsikamma Point, her number 3 hold hit first. Numbers 4 and 5 holds and the stokehold were also damaged. The engine room flooded, extinguishing the boiler fires and leaving the ship without power. Two other steamships arrived -- the Elder, Dempster vessel Lake Erie and the smaller Inchanga -- but neither could tow the Suffolk free. After deliberation, Captain Cuthbert ordered the ship abandoned at 12:30 in the afternoon. The crew and hostlers transferred to the Lake Erie. The horses were released from their stalls and given a chance to swim to shore, but the distance and the surf were too much. None made it. The Suffolk sank at 3:50 that afternoon. Lake Erie landed the survivors at Port Elizabeth that evening.

The Court's Verdict

The Court of Inquiry sat in Port Elizabeth from October 3 to 9, 1900. Its findings were damning. The Suffolk had lacked a large-scale Admiralty chart of the coast between Mossel Bay and Cape St. Francis. She carried no copy of African Pilot, Part III, the navigation guide for that stretch of shore. Captain Cuthbert had set the course incorrectly on September 23, failing to account for the area's currents. No soundings had been taken during the night to check the depth beneath the hull. Stokes had left the bridge. The lookout had failed. The court found Cuthbert, Stokes, and the lookout all negligent. Cuthbert's Master's certificate was suspended for six months. Stokes's certificate was cancelled outright. The lookout, an able seaman, was severely censured. The Suffolk, one year and two months old, lay broken on the rocks of the Tsitsikamma, her horses lost to a coast that punishes navigational carelessness without mercy.

From the Air

Coordinates: 34.20S, 24.51E (approximate wreck site). The SS Suffolk struck rocks off Tsitsikamma Point near Cape St. Francis on the Eastern Cape coast. The wreck site is close to shore along a rugged coastline. From the air, the Tsitsikamma coast is characterized by steep cliffs, rocky points, and dense forest. Best viewed at 2,000-4,000 ft. Nearest airports: Port Elizabeth (FAPE), approximately 120 km northeast; George (FAGE), approximately 200 km west. Cape St. Francis and the N2 highway provide orientation.