Old mill in St. Augustine, Florida. Milltop Tavern, 19 1/2 Saint George St., St Augustine, Florida.
Old mill in St. Augustine, Florida. Milltop Tavern, 19 1/2 Saint George St., St Augustine, Florida.

St. Augustine: The Oldest City in America (That Europeans Built)

floridaoldest-cityspanishhistorycolonial
5 min read

St. Augustine's claim to fame requires an asterisk. It's the oldest continuously occupied European-established settlement in the United States - not the oldest city in America (Indigenous peoples built those), not the oldest European settlement (Spanish preceded it elsewhere), not even the first permanent European settlement in North America (that's debatable). But it's been continuously occupied since 1565, which is longer than any other U.S. city can claim. Founded by Pedro Menéndez de Avilés to expel French Huguenots from Florida, St. Augustine has survived attacks, regime changes, and the peculiar indignity of becoming a tourist destination. The oldest city is now famous primarily for being old.

The Founding

In 1565, King Philip II of Spain commissioned Menéndez to eliminate a French Protestant settlement at Fort Caroline. Menéndez landed on September 8 - the feast day of St. Augustine of Hippo - named the settlement accordingly, then marched north to slaughter the French. The Spanish were thorough; most survivors were executed. St. Augustine became the northernmost outpost of Spanish Florida, defended by wooden forts, sustained by supply ships from Cuba, and constantly threatened by English and Indigenous attacks. The settlement's early decades were precarious; its survival was never guaranteed.

The Fort

The Castillo de San Marcos, begun in 1672 and completed in 1695, is the oldest masonry fort in the continental United States. Built of coquina - a local stone composed of compressed shells - the walls absorbed cannon fire rather than shattering. The British besieged the fort twice without capturing it. When Florida passed to British control in 1763, the fort became Fort St. Mark. When Spain regained Florida in 1783, the original name returned. The United States acquired Florida in 1821; the fort became Fort Marion. The name Castillo de San Marcos was restored in 1942. The fort survives, solid, patient, older than the nation that now owns it.

The Reinvention

St. Augustine languished through much of the 19th century until Henry Flagler arrived. The Standard Oil co-founder built luxury hotels, extended his railroad, and transformed the old Spanish town into a winter resort for wealthy Northerners. The Ponce de León Hotel (now Flagler College) and the Alcazar (now the Lightner Museum) established St. Augustine as a destination. The historic Spanish quarter became an attraction rather than a liability. The city that had been founded to kill Protestants became a playground for Protestant industrialists.

The Tourism

Modern St. Augustine runs on history tourism. The historic district preserves Spanish colonial architecture, narrow streets, and coquina buildings. Attractions range from serious (the Castillo, the Cathedral Basilica) to kitschy (the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, various ghost tours). The city hosts roughly 6 million visitors annually, most concentrated in the walkable downtown. The tourism has preserved what development might have destroyed; the historic buildings survive because they generate revenue. Whether the commercialization cheapens the history or enables its survival depends on perspective.

Visiting St. Augustine

St. Augustine is located on Florida's northeast coast, roughly 40 miles south of Jacksonville. The historic district is compact and walkable; parking is limited and expensive. The Castillo de San Marcos is operated by the National Park Service; admission is charged. St. George Street is the main pedestrian thoroughfare, lined with shops and restaurants. The Lightner Museum (decorative arts) and Flagler College tours interpret the Gilded Age legacy. The Old Jail, ghost tours, and Ripley's provide entertainment. The beach is east of the historic district. Jacksonville has the nearest major airport. Hotels range from historic B&Bs to chain properties. Visit spring or fall for optimal weather.

From the Air

Located at 29.90°N, 81.31°W on Florida's northeast Atlantic coast. From altitude, St. Augustine appears as a coastal city on the Intracoastal Waterway, Matanzas Bay separating the historic core from Anastasia Island. The Castillo de San Marcos is visible as a star-shaped fortification on the bay's western shore. The historic district clusters near the fort. Modern development spreads inland and along the barrier island beaches. Jacksonville lies to the north. The landscape is typical Florida coastal: flat, green, interlaced with water. Nothing about the view suggests the antiquity of what exists below - the oldest European settlement in the country, visible from altitude as just another Florida town.