St. Croix Island

wildlifeislandconservationhistory
3 min read

In March 1488, Bartolomeu Dias stepped onto a rocky island 3.9 kilometers off the South African coast, planted a stone cross called a padrao, and celebrated Mass. It was among the first acts of European ceremony on the southern African shore, performed on a barren slab of rock that rises 59 meters above the Indian Ocean and supports almost no vegetation. Dias named it Santa Cruz. Five centuries later, the island he christened holds something far more consequential than a stone marker: the largest breeding colony of endangered African penguins on earth, a population whose survival hangs in a balance that tips a little further each year.

Twelve Hectares at the Edge of Survival

St. Croix Island is not large. It runs 700 meters along a northwest-southeast axis and is about 360 meters wide at its broadest point along the west coast. The highest point sits halfway along the north coast, 58 meters above sea level according to BirdLife International. The island is rocky, with minimal vegetation, and two disused stone bungalows built first for guano collectors and later used by the University of Port Elizabeth for research purposes are among the only structures. What the island lacks in size it compensates in ecological weight. With approximately 22,000 African penguins breeding here, St. Croix supports the single largest colony of a species whose total population has plummeted by more than 95 percent since the early 1900s. The colony peaked at 63,000 birds in 1993. The decline since then mirrors the species-wide crisis, driven by competition with commercial fishing for sardines and anchovies, oil pollution, and habitat disturbance.

Companions of the Colony

St. Croix is the principal island in a group of three that includes Brenton Island, named after Naval Commissioner Sir Jahleel Brenton, and Jahleel Island, also named in his honor. Brenton sits 1.75 kilometers south, a low islet of less than 20 meters elevation, 5.75 kilometers from the mainland. Jahleel is the most accessible, just over a kilometer from the closest beach and within sight of the Port of Ngqura's 2.6-kilometer eastern breakwater. All three islands and their surrounding waters are declared nature reserves within the Addo Elephant National Park and are closed to public access. The islands hold a locally significant breeding population of Cape cormorants alongside the penguins, and boat trips from Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) bring visitors close enough to observe the colonies without landing. From these boats, the penguins are visible as dense clusters of black and white on the island's gray rock, their braying calls audible over the engine noise.

Oil, Industry, and the Narrowing Margin

The proximity of St. Croix to the Port of Ngqura creates a tension that conservation groups have been sounding alarms about for years. The deep-water port facility at Coega, on the northeastern outskirts of Gqeberha, lies within eight kilometers of the island. In 2019, an oil spill at the port directly impacted the penguin colony, coating birds in fuel that destroys the waterproofing of their feathers and exposes them to hypothermia. The conservation group SANCCOB has led efforts to clean and rehabilitate oiled penguins, but the work is painstaking and the threats keep growing. As of 2022, no environmental impact assessment had been conducted on ship-to-shore fuel bunkering operations in the bay, despite further spills threatening the breeding colonies. The African penguin is classified as endangered, and scientists estimate that at current rates of decline the species could be functionally extinct in the wild within decades. St. Croix is one of the few colonies still large enough to sustain itself, but that margin narrows with each spill, each fishing trawler, each year of warming seas.

From the Air

St. Croix Island sits at 33.80S, 25.77E in Algoa Bay, approximately 3.9 km from the nearest mainland point at Hougham Park and within 8 km of the Port of Ngqura. The island is visible from moderate altitude as a rocky outcrop rising 59 m from the sea. Brenton Island lies 1.75 km south and Jahleel Island 5.75 km west. From 3,000-5,000 ft AGL, all three islands and their relationship to the Port of Ngqura breakwater are clearly visible. Nearest airport: Port Elizabeth (FAPE), approximately 20 km southwest. The dense penguin colonies appear as pale patches on the dark rock from low altitude.