Taholah, Washington

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4 min read

The seawall is 2,000 feet long and it is not enough. Taholah, a village of roughly 840 people on the Quinault Indian Reservation, sits where the Quinault River empties into the Pacific Ocean on Washington's outer coast. The Pacific has been rising, the storms intensifying, and the wall that separates the village from the ocean has breached more than once. In 2014, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers raised it by four feet. The Quinault Nation looked at the fix and made a different calculation entirely: rather than keep building the wall higher, they would move the village. It is a decision rooted not in panic but in the kind of long-term thinking that comes from inhabiting a place for thousands of years.

Named for a Chief

The village takes its name from a Quinault chief, bestowed in 1905 when the settlement needed an official designation. Before that, it was simply where the Quinault people lived - at the mouth of their river, on their coast, in the territory they had occupied since long before the concept of village names existed. The headquarters of the Quinault Indian Nation moved here from the town of Quinault on the shore of Lake Quinault, consolidating tribal governance at the coast.

Taholah is small by any measure. The 2010 census counted 840 residents in 240 households, with an average household size of 3.43 people. Over 93 percent of residents are Native American. The Taholah School District's mascot is the Chitwhin - 'black bear' in the Quinault language. Washington State Route 109 ends here, its northern terminus; the highway runs south nine miles to Moclips and 41 miles to Hoquiam, the nearest city of any size.

Between River and Ocean

Taholah occupies a sliver of land in northwestern Grays Harbor County where geography conspires against permanence. The Quinault River runs along the village's northern edge before meeting the Pacific. Point Grenville, called Point Haynisisoos by the local Quinault, rises three miles to the south - one of the major headlands on the Washington coast. The village sits in a tsunami inundation zone, exposed to both riverine flooding and ocean surge.

Ninety-four inches of rain fall here in an average year. The climate is relentlessly maritime - damp air rolling in from the Pacific, grey skies that persist for weeks. The landscape is lush because of it: dense coastal forest, thick undergrowth, the kind of green that only constant moisture produces. The total area of the census-designated place is about 3.5 square miles, nearly all of it land, pressed between the forest and the surf.

The Decision to Move

Taholah lies squarely within what geologists call a Cascadia Subduction Zone tsunami inundation area. The last major Cascadia earthquake, in 1700, sent waves across the Pacific that were recorded in Japan. The next one is not a question of if but when. Add sea level rise and increasingly severe winter storms, and the math becomes stark.

The relocation plan calls for acquiring 246 acres of higher ground. One hundred seventy-five new homes for 129 families, new streets, new water infrastructure - essentially building a second village and moving the first one into it. A revised cost estimate of $150 million was released in 2017, and construction began two years later. In May 2021, the first structure in the relocated village opened: the Generations Building, a senior and children's center whose Quinault name, Wenasqwellaaw, speaks to its purpose of connecting elders with youth. It is a beginning, not an end.

Holding On While Moving Up

The economics of Taholah are difficult. As of the 2000 census, the per capita income was $9,373. Nearly 35 percent of the population lived below the poverty line, a figure that rose to 41.5 percent for children. The median household income was $24,688. These numbers describe a community with few financial resources attempting one of the most ambitious climate adaptation projects in the country.

The Quinault Nation has taken its case to Congress and to international climate forums, including the 2015 Paris climate talks. The argument is straightforward: a sovereign nation that has lived on this coast for millennia is being forced to relocate by forces it did not create. The relocation is not abandonment. The Quinault are not leaving their territory - they are moving a few hundred feet uphill within it, maintaining their connection to the river, the ocean, and the land that defines them. The seawall holds for now. The village is rising behind it.

From the Air

Located at 47.35N, 124.29W on Washington's outer coast where the Quinault River meets the Pacific Ocean. The village is visible as a small settlement nestled between dense coastal forest and the ocean, with a seawall along its western edge. Point Grenville (Point Haynisisoos) rises prominently 3 miles to the south. Nearest airport: Bowerman Airport (KHQM) in Hoquiam, approximately 40 miles southeast via State Route 109. Expect frequent low cloud cover and marine fog; average annual rainfall is 94 inches. The Quinault River mouth and the contrast between the village's low-lying position and the forested hills behind it are the key visual landmarks.