Tanzhe Temple
Tanzhe Temple

Tanzhe Temple

templeshistorical-sitesbuddhism
4 min read

There is a saying in Beijing: 'First came Tanzhe Temple, then came the city.' The chronology is not quite metaphorical. Founded in 307 during the Western Jin dynasty, the temple predates Beijing's establishment as an imperial capital by more than eight centuries. Nestled in the Western Hills about 45 kilometers from the city center, surrounded by mulberry trees and built above a dragon pool -- the two features that give the temple its name -- Tanzhe Temple has survived 1,700 years of dynastic cycles, and its more than 900 rooms and 638 halls still carry the architectural imprint of the Ming and Qing dynasties.

A Temple That Outlasted Dynasties

When the temple was first established in the first year of the Yongjia period, it was called Jiafu Temple. It would be renamed multiple times over the centuries, eventually becoming Xiuyun Temple under the Kangxi Emperor in the Qing dynasty. But the popular name stuck: 'Tanzhe' combines tan, for the dragon pool behind the main halls, and zhe, for the mulberry trees growing in the surrounding mountains. The temple reached its zenith during the Qing dynasty, when four consecutive emperors -- Kangxi, Yongzheng, Qianlong, and Jiaqing -- made pilgrimages to worship Buddha here. Imperial patronage elevated the temple's status enormously, attracting pilgrims and donations that funded the expansion of its grounds across 6.8 hectares of mountainside.

The Princess Who Prayed Through Stone

The Hall of Guanyin holds one of the temple's most evocative stories. Princess Miaoyan, a daughter of Kublai Khan, is said to have renounced the Mongol court in the 13th century to enter nunnery at Tanzhe Temple. According to tradition, she spent so many years kneeling in prayer on the same stone that her knees wore visible indentations into its surface -- marks that visitors can still examine today. She is also believed to have been buried within the temple compound. Whether the details are literal or legendary, the story captures something true about the temple's character: this is a place where devotion is measured not in gestures but in lifetimes, where the evidence of faith is worn into the physical fabric of the buildings themselves.

Dragons on the Roofline

The Mahavira Hall, the temple's central structure, is 24 meters long and 33 meters wide, topped with double-eave hip roofs covered in yellow glazed tiles -- a designation of high status in Chinese architecture. Under the eaves, the Qianlong Emperor inscribed a plaque reading 'Fuhai Zhulun,' evoking a great ship sailing toward the western paradise. But the most striking features sit at the ends of the main ridge: giant glazed chiwen, mythological creatures with dragon heads and fish tails, crafted during the Yuan dynasty in the 13th century. These were believed to prevent fire and protect the building. Legend holds that when the Kangxi Emperor visited, he noticed one of the chiwen appeared ready to depart and ordered a gilded chain and sword installed to keep it from escaping.

A Forest of Stone and Memory

Beyond the main courtyards, nearly 70 tomb pagodas from different dynasties stand in a grove known as the Pagoda Forest. Built in styles ranging from stone columns to Tibetan overturned-bowl shapes, the pagodas house the remains of eminent monks and mark centuries of continuous Buddhist practice. Nearby, the Yigan Pavilion -- also called the Pavilion of Bestowing Wine -- features a white marble floor inscribed with channels winding in the pattern of a dragon and a tiger. Spring water flows through these channels from a stone dragon in the northeast corner, allowing visitors to sit and emulate an ancient custom called Qushui Liushang, in which a cup of wine floats along a winding waterway while companions compose poetry. Two 'Emperor trees' planted during the Liao dynasty, about a thousand years ago, still shade the Hall of Three Sages, their canopies spreading wide enough to shelter dozens of people.

From the Air

Coordinates: 39.904N, 116.024E. Located in the Western Hills, Mentougou District, western Beijing, about 45 km from the city center. The temple sits in a mountainous, forested area near China National Highway 108. From the air, the surrounding terrain is hilly with heavy vegetation, contrasting with the flat urban sprawl of central Beijing to the east. Nearest major airport is Beijing Capital International (ZBAA/PEK), about 65 km to the northeast.