Thessaloniki's Byzantine churches are what UNESCO recognizes, the basilicas and domed structures that held mosaics when Constantinople's were destroyed. The Rotunda that Galerius built and that became church, the Hagia Sophia that predates Istanbul's, the churches whose mosaics survived when others were whitewashed - the Byzantine heritage is what Thessaloniki uniquely offers.

The Byzantine heritage makes Thessaloniki essential for anyone interested in the millennium between Rome and Renaissance that shaped Eastern Europe. The heritage is what Athens lacks; the heritage is why Thessaloniki matters.

The waterfront that stretches from the port to the White Tower is where Thessaloniki gathers, the promenade where evening strolls and weekend brunches happen. The waterfront that modern development has created from what was industrial port, the public space that Mediterranean cities need.

The waterfront is where Thessaloniki displays its current character - the young population that the university creates, the cafe culture that Greek life requires, the energy that Athens's chaos doesn't quite match. The waterfront is Thessaloniki's living room.

The White Tower is Thessaloniki's icon, the Ottoman fortification that guarded the harbor and that now houses museum of the city's history. The tower whose white color was earned only after restoration, that marks the waterfront and anchors every photograph - the White Tower is what represents Thessaloniki.

The tower provides the views that visitors expect and the museum that context requires. The tower is where Thessaloniki's history concentrates, the symbol that unifies complicated past.

Thessaloniki's food reflects its position between Balkans and Mediterranean, the cuisine that Ottoman influence and Greek tradition shaped. The bougatsa pastry that Thessaloniki claims as its own, the seafood that the port provides, the spices that Eastern cooking introduced - the food is what makes Thessaloniki destination.

The food markets and restaurants that the city holds, the morning rituals that bougatsa enables, the tavernas that evening fills - the food is how Thessaloniki expresses itself. The food is why some visitors come and why all visitors eat well.

The Ano Poli (Upper Town) is what survived the 1917 fire that destroyed much of Thessaloniki, the Ottoman quarter whose narrow streets and traditional houses climb the hill within Byzantine walls. The views that elevation provides, the atmosphere that survival creates - the Upper Town is what old Thessaloniki looked like.

The Upper Town is where tourists who want more than waterfront explore, the streets that reveal what the fire spared. The Upper Town is Thessaloniki's memory preserved.