Thula Thula

conservationwildlifegame-reservesouth-africazululand
4 min read

In 1999, a herd of wild elephants arrived at Thula Thula in a steel truck, destined to be shot if no one would take them. The conservationist Lawrence Anthony accepted them, built a boma to hold them, and watched in dismay as they immediately broke through the electric fence and disappeared into the Zululand bush. What happened next became one of the most remarkable stories in modern conservation: Anthony spent days and nights at the fence line, talking to the matriarch Nana in low, steady tones, willing her to trust him. She did. The herd came back, and over the following years they formed a bond with Anthony so deep that when he died in 2012, the elephants walked in a solemn procession to his house - something they had never done before - and stood there for two days.

A King's Hunting Ground

The name means 'peace and tranquility' in Zulu, and these rolling hills of KwaZulu-Natal earned it centuries before the reserve existed. This was the private hunting ground of King Shaka, the warrior who forged the Zulu Nation in the early nineteenth century. It was here, along the Nseleni River, that the young Shaka first met his father Senzangakhona - a meeting that set in motion the consolidation of scattered clans into one of southern Africa's most powerful kingdoms. The land became a formal game reserve in 1911, making it one of the oldest private reserves in KwaZulu-Natal. But for most of the twentieth century, it was a quiet corner of Zululand, beautiful and unremarkable, waiting for the story that would put it on the map.

The Elephant Whisperer

Lawrence Anthony was not a scientist. He was a conservationist with a stubborn streak and an unshakeable belief that animals could be reached through patience. When the rogue elephants from Mpumalanga arrived - a matriarch named Nana, the fierce Frankie, and the rest of their traumatized herd - Anthony camped at the boma fence and simply talked. Night after night, he spoke to them, sometimes reading aloud, sometimes just letting them hear a calm human voice. It took weeks before Nana stopped charging the fence when he approached. Months before the herd settled into something resembling trust.

Anthony's book The Elephant Whisperer, published in 2009, told this story to the world. His follow-up, The Last Rhinos, chronicled his efforts to save the northern white rhinoceros in the Congo. He founded the Earth Organization and turned Thula Thula into a model for hands-on, emotionally attuned wildlife management.

After the Whisperer

Anthony died on 2 March 2012. Within hours, the elephant herd - which had been grazing in a distant part of the reserve - began walking toward the Anthony family compound. They arrived in two groups, led by Nana and Frankie, and stood vigil near the house for two days before slowly returning to the bush. No one had called them. No one can explain how they knew.

Anthony's wife, Francoise Malby-Anthony, took over the reserve. She established a Wildlife Rehabilitation Center and a Conservation Volunteer Camp, expanding Thula Thula's mission beyond the elephants. In 2018, she published An Elephant in My Kitchen, continuing the family's literary tradition. By that year the herd had grown to 29 elephants. Frankie, the fierce matriarch who once charged every human she saw, died of liver failure in January 2021, leaving 28 elephants in the herd she had helped to build.

The Wild Kingdom

Thula Thula is part of the Royal Zulu Biosphere, and its 4,500 hectares shelter far more than elephants. Cape buffalo graze alongside southern white rhinoceros. South African giraffes browse the acacias while zebra and wildebeest move across the grasslands below. African leopards hunt at night, threading through thickets where nyala and kudu shelter during the day. Hyenas patrol the margins, and Nile crocodiles hold the waterways.

Over 350 species of birds have been recorded here, including a breeding population of white-backed vultures - a species under increasing pressure across the continent. The two lodges on the reserve offer guests the unusual experience of staying on land where the conservation isn't abstract. The elephants that walk past your window are the same ones whose story you read in a bestselling book. They remember what humans did for them - and what humans almost did.

From the Air

Located at 28.59S, 31.76E in the KwaZulu-Natal lowlands of Zululand. The reserve's 4,500 hectares are visible as a patch of relatively intact bushveld amid surrounding agricultural land. The Nseleni River runs through the property. Nearest major airport: Richards Bay Airport (FARB), approximately 50 km to the southeast. King Shaka International Airport (FALE) in Durban is about 180 km to the south. Expect warm, subtropical conditions with good visibility most of the year. Best viewed at 3,000-5,000 feet AGL.