South Hall, University of California, Berkeley, housing the UC Berkeley School of Information. Taken on March 2, 2007.
South Hall, University of California, Berkeley, housing the UC Berkeley School of Information. Taken on March 2, 2007.

University of California, Berkeley

University of California, Berkeley1868 establishments in CaliforniaEducation in Berkeley, CaliforniaFlagship universities in the United StatesLand-grant universities and collegesPublic universities and colleges in California
5 min read

Two of the elements on the periodic table are named after this place. Berkelium and californium were synthesized in labs on these hills above the San Francisco Bay, part of a streak that saw UC Berkeley researchers discover sixteen elements in total - more than any other university in the world. That fact alone would secure Berkeley's reputation. But elements are only one line in a ledger that includes the cyclotron, CRISPR gene editing, the open-source software movement, the Free Speech Movement, and a Nobel Prize count that has reached over a hundred affiliates. The university that opened in 1869 with ten faculty and forty male students in a rented building in Oakland has become something outsized - a public institution that routinely outperforms its private peers, a place where the periodic table was literally expanded and the boundaries of what a state university could achieve were permanently redrawn.

Forty Students and a Philosopher's Name

The story begins with the Morrill Act. President Lincoln signed it in 1862 to fund public universities through land grants, and six years later the University of California was born - a merger of the private College of California and a public agricultural college. Frederick Billings, a trustee, suggested naming the new campus site after George Berkeley, the Anglo-Irish philosopher who had written about the westward course of empire. The university admitted women in its second year, 1870, making it coeducational almost from the start. When North and South Halls were completed in 1873, the campus moved from Oakland to its present Berkeley location with 167 male and 22 female students. Henry Durant, founder of the old College of California, served as the first president. By the 1890s, Phoebe Apperson Hearst - mother of William Randolph Hearst - was funding buildings, sponsoring an international architectural competition, and shaping the Beaux-Arts campus plan that architect John Galen Howard would execute over the next two decades.

The Cyclotron and the Bomb

In the 1930s, physicist Ernest Orlando Lawrence invented the cyclotron - a circular particle accelerator that could smash atoms apart and reveal their secrets. The device won him the Nobel Prize in 1939 and established the Radiation Laboratory on the Berkeley campus, which grew into what is now Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. Using the cyclotron, Berkeley scientists began discovering new chemical elements: neptunium, plutonium, americium, curium, and more, eventually reaching sixteen in total. Then the war came. Glenn Seaborg's secret discovery of plutonium made Berkeley central to the Manhattan Project. Physics professor J. Robert Oppenheimer became wartime director of Los Alamos. The moral weight of what those labs produced - weapons that ended the war and opened the nuclear age - has never fully lifted from the campus. But the science kept compounding. Jennifer Doudna's development of CRISPR gene editing, Saul Perlmutter's discovery of dark energy, James Allison's cancer immunotherapy breakthroughs - Berkeley's research tradition stretches from splitting atoms to editing genes.

The Microphone on Sproul Plaza

On October 1, 1964, campus police arrested Jack Weinberg at a card table on Sproul Plaza for distributing civil rights literature without a permit. Students surrounded the police car. For thirty-two hours, they held it in place while Mario Savio and others climbed on the roof and spoke to the growing crowd. The Free Speech Movement had begun. What started as a fight over university regulations on political activity became a template for campus protest that spread across the country, feeding directly into the opposition to the Vietnam War. Berkeley's identity as a place of political engagement - sometimes celebrated, sometimes controversial, never quiet - was forged in those months. The university has never shaken it, and has mostly stopped trying. People's Park, the anti-war marches, the counterculture of the late 1960s - all grew in the soil that the Free Speech Movement turned over.

A Public University That Punches Up

Berkeley is consistently ranked among the top five public universities in the world, competing directly with private institutions that charge four times the tuition and hold endowments ten times larger. Over a hundred Nobel laureates have been affiliated with the university as faculty, researchers, or alumni. The alumni roster reads like a catalog of twentieth-century achievement: Earl Warren, Chief Justice of the United States; Steve Wozniak, co-founder of Apple; Gregory Peck, Academy Award winner; Robert McNamara, Secretary of Defense. Berkeley alumni have won 34 Pulitzer Prizes and 22 Academy Awards. The university's athletic teams, the California Golden Bears, compete in the ACC and maintain fierce rivalries - none more celebrated than the annual Big Game against Stanford. At the 1982 Big Game, Cal's kickoff return team pulled off what may be the most famous play in college football history, lateraling five times through the Stanford band to score the winning touchdown.

Twelve Hundred Acres on the Fault Line

The campus spreads across roughly 1,232 acres, though the central campus occupies only the lowest 178 acres on the flatlands between the Berkeley Hills and San Francisco Bay. Above it rise the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, the Lawrence Hall of Science, the Space Sciences Laboratory, an 800-acre ecological preserve, and the UC Botanical Garden in Strawberry Canyon. The Campanile - Sather Tower - stands 307 feet tall at the campus center, its 61-bell carillon ringing three times daily. California Memorial Stadium sits in Strawberry Canyon, built directly over the Hayward Fault, which runs beneath the playing field. More than 45,000 students attend Berkeley today. The marine layer rolls in from the Golden Gate most summer mornings, burning off by noon to reveal the Bay Bridge, San Francisco's skyline, and Mount Tamalpais beyond. From the air, Berkeley is visible as a dense cluster of cream-colored buildings against the green hillside, anchored by the Campanile's unmistakable profile.

From the Air

UC Berkeley is at 37.872N, 122.258W, on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay. The campus is identifiable from the air by Sather Tower (the Campanile, 307 feet tall) and California Memorial Stadium in Strawberry Canyon. The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory sits in the hills directly above campus. Nearest airports: Oakland International (KOAK) approximately 8 nm south, Buchanan Field (KCCR) approximately 15 nm northeast, San Francisco International (KSFO) approximately 20 nm south-southeast. The Bay Area marine layer can obscure approaches from the west, but the Berkeley Hills side is typically clear. Recommended viewing altitude: 3,000-5,000 feet for campus detail.