
Mark Twain rented it. Teddy Roosevelt's family summered there as a boy. Arturo Toscanini conducted in its music room. The estate called Wave Hill, perched on the slopes of Riverdale overlooking the Hudson River, has attracted the famous and the powerful since a lawyer named William Lewis Morris built a gray fieldstone mansion on the site in 1843. Today it is a 28-acre public garden and cultural center, one of the quietest places in New York City, where the view across the river to the New Jersey Palisades has remained essentially unchanged for two centuries.
The estate's ownership reads like a social register of Gilded Age ambition. Morris built the original house; publisher William Henry Appleton bought it in 1866 and enlarged it twice, adding greenhouses and gardens to the grounds. In 1903, George Walbridge Perkins -- a partner of J.P. Morgan -- purchased the property along with adjacent land, including Glyndor, a house built by the Harriman family in 1888 that later burned down and was rebuilt in 1927. Each owner left their mark, but the estate's character was shaped less by any single patron than by its setting: the steep slope falling away to the Hudson, the Palisades rising on the far shore, the light that shifts across the water through every season. When Perkins's family gave the estate to the City of New York in 1960, they were preserving not just a house but a landscape.
Wave Hill's gardens are organized by type and temperament, each occupying its own distinct character within the property. The Marco Polo Stufano Conservatory, named for the estate's founding Director of Horticulture, houses a Palm House, a Tropical House, and a Cactus and Succulent House containing more than 1,100 container-grown plants. Outside, the Herb and Dry Gardens contrast with the Aquatic and Monocot Garden. The 10-acre Herbert and Hyonja Abrons Woodland preserves native second-growth forest, with a path stretching around the property's perimeter. From the Pergola, the views of the Hudson and the Palisades are the kind that slow conversation to a stop. Birders have recorded 127 species on the grounds, including ruby-throated hummingbirds, great blue herons, and bald eagles soaring above the river cliffs.
Glyndor House, rebuilt after its 1920s fire, contains a multi-room art gallery where exhibitions typically feature work inspired by the gardens and the natural world. Each winter, the Winter Workspace program invites artists to Glyndor House for six-to-eight-week residencies from January through April, when the bare branches and muted palette of the dormant garden offer a different kind of inspiration. Working artists use the grounds and resources of the site, then share their work in open studios with the public. Concert series take place on some Sunday afternoons in Armor Hall, and the Perkins Visitor Center -- originally a garage -- houses a gift shop featuring work by local artists. About 65,000 people visit Wave Hill annually, making it one of Riverdale's most popular destinations.
Wave Hill is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a New York City designated landmark, but what draws most visitors is less the historical pedigree than the experience of stillness. In 2005, the estate was among 406 New York City institutions to receive part of a $20 million Carnegie Corporation grant, funded by a donation from Mayor Michael Bloomberg. The money helped sustain an institution that operates at a different tempo from the city around it. The cafe in Wave Hill House opens onto the Kate French Terrace, where visitors eat lunch with the Palisades filling the western horizon. It is the kind of place where you find yourself sitting longer than you planned, watching the light change over the river, aware that Twain and Toscanini and the Roosevelts sat somewhere nearby and did the same.
Located at 40.899°N, 73.913°W in the Riverdale section of the Bronx, on the steep western slope above the Hudson River. From the air, look for the green estate grounds perched above the river, with the Palisades cliffs rising directly across the water in New Jersey. Riverdale Park abuts the property to the south. Nearest airports: Teterboro (KTEB), approximately 7 nm northwest; LaGuardia (KLGA), approximately 10 nm south-southeast. Best viewed at 1,500-2,500 ft AGL. The Henry Hudson Parkway runs along the riverbank below the estate.