White Sands
White Sands is what remains when an ancient lake evaporates and the wind takes over. The Tularosa Basin in southern New Mexico is a landlocked depression - water flows in but has no outlet to the sea. Over thousands of years, gypsum from the surrounding mountains collected in Lake Lucero. As the climate dried, the lake shrank, and wind-blown gypsum crystals began accumulating as dunes. Today, 275 square miles of brilliant white gypsum sand ripple across the basin floor - the world's largest gypsum dune field. The sand is so white it looks like snow. The dunes are so pure that they've been used for testing missiles at adjacent White Sands Missile Range. Plants and animals have adapted to this harsh environment with remarkable strategies, including lizards and mice that have evolved white coloration for camouflage. White Sands became America's 62nd national park in 2019.
The Formation
The Tularosa Basin is a graben - a block of land that dropped between two fault lines millions of years ago. Water flows into it from surrounding mountains but has no outlet; the only escape is evaporation. The gypsum comes from the San Andres and Sacramento Mountains, dissolving and washing into the basin floor. During the last ice age, Lake Otero covered much of the basin. As the climate warmed, the lake shrank to seasonal Lake Lucero. Gypsum crystals form on the lake bed, dry in the sun, and wind carries the fragments northeast, building the dune field. The process continues today.
The Adaptation
Living on white sand requires special adaptations. Several species have evolved white coloration to match their environment - a textbook example of natural selection in action. The bleached earless lizard and Apache pocket mouse are both notably lighter than their relatives elsewhere. Plants must survive both being buried by advancing dunes and having sand erode from beneath them. Rio Grande cottonwoods grow on pedestals of sand held together by their roots. Hoary rosemary mint extends stems as it's buried, keeping leaves above the sand. Soaptree yuccas grow stalks up to 30 feet tall, rising above the dunes.
The Military
White Sands Missile Range surrounds the national park, and the military presence shapes the visitor experience. The first atomic bomb was tested at Trinity Site, 60 miles north, in 1945. The missile range tests rockets, missiles, and various weapons; road closures occur during tests. The military values the basin for the same reason the sand is white: isolation. This is one of the most remote and sparsely populated regions in the continental United States. The park occupies a small portion of the total dune field; most of the gypsum sand lies within the missile range, inaccessible to civilians.
The Park
White Sands became a national monument in 1933 and a national park in 2019. The upgrade recognized the site's unique geological and biological significance. Visitor facilities are minimal but sufficient: a visitor center, an 8-mile scenic drive into the dunes, and trails ranging from boardwalk strolls to backcountry hikes. Sand sledding is popular - plastic saucers are sold at the visitor center. Backcountry camping is permitted by permit. The experience is surreal: white sand dunes under blue sky, silence except for wind, a landscape that looks lunar or arctic but is actually desert.
Visiting White Sands
White Sands National Park is located 15 miles southwest of Alamogordo, New Mexico, via US-70. Hours vary due to missile range testing; check the website before visiting. The 8-mile Dunes Drive leads into the heart of the dune field. Hiking trails range from wheelchair-accessible boardwalks to backcountry routes. Sunset and sunrise offer the best photography; full-moon nights are magical. Sand sledding is fun; bring or buy a saucer. The white sand reflects heat and light intensely - bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and water. El Paso International Airport (ELP) is 90 miles south. Alamogordo has services. Nearby attractions include Carlsbad Caverns (100 miles southeast) and the Space History Museum in Alamogordo.
From the Air
Located at 32.78°N, 106.17°W in the Tularosa Basin of south-central New Mexico. From altitude, White Sands appears as a brilliant white expanse in the brown desert, unmistakable and striking. The dunes cover 275 square miles, extending northeast from Lake Lucero. The San Andres Mountains rise to the west; the Sacramento Mountains to the east. White Sands Missile Range facilities are visible around the perimeter. The park's visitor center and scenic drive are at the dune field's southern edge. Alamogordo is visible to the east.