Whitefish Mountain Resort rises north of town, its 3,000-plus acres of skiable terrain drawing winter visitors from across the country. The mountain receives over 300 inches of snow annually, the same Pacific moisture that feeds Glacier's remaining glaciers dropping powder on slopes that range from gentle groomers to challenging bowls and glades.

The resort's relative obscurity works in its favor. While Vail and Aspen draw crowds and charge accordingly, Whitefish offers comparable terrain without the celebrity scene. Locals and in-the-know visitors share the mountain with far fewer people than the big-name resorts. The town below retains its Montana character - more Carhartt than cashmere, more pickup trucks than Porsches, though the balance shifts a little more each year as word spreads.

Whitefish Lake wraps around the town's northwestern edge, its 3,300 acres of clear water offering summer recreation to match the winter skiing. A state park and city beach sit within walking distance of downtown, making the lake accessible without a boat. But boats help - the marina at the Lodge at Whitefish Lake rents everything from kayaks to jet skis, and public launches provide access for those who trailer in their own craft.

The lake is cold - this is Montana, after all, fed by snowmelt from the surrounding mountains. But on July afternoons, when the air temperature climbs and the sun stays up past 10 PM, the water feels perfect. Dawn and dusk bring the best fishing, anglers pursuing the lake trout and whitefish that gave the town its name.

Glacier National Park begins 27 miles to the east, its entrance at West Glacier accessible via US-2 through the Flathead National Forest. Many backpackers and climbers use Whitefish as their staging point, stocking up on supplies and spending their last night in civilization before heading into the backcountry.

The relationship between town and park has shaped Whitefish since the beginning. The Great Northern Railway promoted Glacier as the 'American Switzerland' and built lodges to house the tourists its trains delivered. Today's visitors may arrive by car or plane rather than rail, but the pattern persists - Whitefish provides the amenities that wild country cannot, the hotels and restaurants and gear shops that make extended wilderness trips possible.

Amtrak's Empire Builder still stops at the historic depot on the north side of downtown, just as trains have since 1905. The route carries passengers between Seattle and Chicago, splitting at Spokane with separate sections serving Portland. It's one of America's most scenic train journeys, particularly the stretch through Glacier National Park, where the rails follow the Middle Fork of the Flathead River beneath the towering peaks.

The train station grounds Whitefish in its origins. Whatever the town has become - resort destination, adventure hub, artsy mountain community - it remains a railroad town at heart. The whistle sounds twice daily, eastbound and westbound, connecting this Montana valley to the wider world just as it has for more than a century.