The main hall (thrid) at Qifo Temple in Wutaishan.
The main hall (thrid) at Qifo Temple in Wutaishan.

Wutaishan National Park

national parksBuddhist sitesUNESCO World Heritage Sites
4 min read

The name translates simply: Five Plateau Mountain. But there is nothing simple about visiting Wutaishan. Arriving in the pilgrimage town of Taihuai typically means a four-to-five-hour bus ride from either Taiyuan or Datong, the two largest cities in Shanxi Province. You step off the bus into a valley surrounded by flat-topped peaks, the air noticeably cooler than the lowlands you left behind, and everywhere around you the rooflines of Buddhist monasteries catch the fading light.

Getting Through the Gate

Wutaishan charges a full-price entrance ticket of 168 yuan, with a compulsory 50-yuan fee for the green coach buses that circulate within the park. Students pay half price for the entrance ticket but get no discount on the bus fee, bringing the total to 218 yuan for most visitors. Buses from Taiyuan's East Bus Station to Taihuai Village cost 78 yuan and take five hours. From Datong, two daily buses depart in summer from the South Bus Station at 8:30 AM and 2:10 PM, costing 75 yuan for a four-hour ride. The nearest airport is in Taiyuan, with flights connecting to Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou. A train station labeled Wutaishan is actually in Shahe, about 50 kilometers away, requiring a taxi or minibus to reach the mountain itself.

A Day Among the Temples

The monasteries of Taihuai are where most visitors spend their first full day. Most are free to enter, though larger ones charge up to 10 yuan. Temple etiquette matters here: step over the wooden threshold with your right foot first, enter and exit on the right side. Signs reading 'no entry to tourists' and 'no photos' are common in active worship areas, and it is worth asking permission before photographing in any religious space. The green coach buses run every five minutes through town until about 6:30 or 7:00 PM, making it easy to move between temple clusters. For the more ambitious, minibuses to the Five Plateaus depart at 7:00 AM from the foot of Dailuo Peak, offering either single-peak trips for about 70 yuan or an eight-and-a-half-hour circuit of all five summits for 350 yuan, with 30 minutes at each.

Knife-Cut Noodles and Mountain Mushrooms

Shanxi Province is noodle country, and Wutaishan follows suit. The local specialty is daoxiaomian, knife-cut noodles shaved directly from a block of dough into boiling water, available at small restaurants throughout Taihuai for about 10 yuan per serving. Street breakfasts of youtiao fried dough sticks and douhua tofu pudding cost 2 and 3 yuan respectively. The local delicacy is taimo, a mountain mushroom that grows in the area and commands prices ranging from modest to extravagant depending on the variety. The rarest and most flavorful type sells for 800 yuan per kilogram even to locals, and tourist restaurants charge 288 yuan for a small portion. For a budget taste, try it in a sauce over knife-cut noodles for 10 yuan. Monasteries theoretically offer free meals to visitors, served under strict rules: separate seating for men and women, no talking, no food waste, and you indicate portion size and congee density with your chopsticks.

Sleeping on Sacred Ground

Lodging concentrates in Taihuai Village, and prices fluctuate with the lunar calendar. Full and new moon nights bring higher rates, as do Friday and Saturday nights, but during the week an oversupply of rooms pushes prices down sharply. Some temples offer guestrooms starting at 20 yuan per person, including Xiantong Temple and Tayuan Temple, though temples in the central area sometimes decline to host foreign visitors. The bus station guesthouse has offered basic ensuite rooms for 50 yuan, with hot water, a TV, and hard beds but no soap or towels. Most traveler lodges in town charge 50 to 100 yuan for a double room. Rack rates posted in hotel lobbies bear little relation to actual prices: a room advertised at 288 yuan can drop to 100 after negotiation, or 80 if you walk toward the door. The key exception is a Saturday night that coincides with a full moon, when demand genuinely tightens.

From the Air

Wutaishan National Park is centered at 39.079N, 113.565E in northeastern Shanxi Province. The five flat-topped peaks are the distinctive terrain feature, with the north peak reaching 3,061 meters. Wutaishan Airport (ZBWT) in Dingxiang County is the nearest airfield, opened December 2015. Taiyuan Wusu International Airport (ZBYN) is the nearest major airport, about 4-5 hours by ground. The subarctic mountain climate produces extreme cold from November to March. From the air, look for the cluster of temple rooflines in the central valley of Taihuai surrounded by the flat-topped ridgelines.