Caldeirão de Santa Cruz do Deserto

historybrazilcearasocial-historyreligious-communitiesstate-violence
5 min read

The ox was called Mansinho - the gentle one. Delmiro Gouveia gave him to Padre Cícero in 1921, and Padre Cícero handed him on to José Lourenço Gomes da Silva, the lay holy man everyone in the Cariri called Beato Zé Lourenço, to look after. That should have been the end of it. Instead the priest's enemies put out word that the peasants around Zé Lourenço were worshipping the animal as a god. The ox was killed. Zé Lourenço was arrested at the urging of Floro Bartolomeu, and released a few days later through Padre Cícero's influence. The accusation had found its shape, though, and it would be used again. Sixteen years later the community he built on the Chapada do Araripe was attacked from the air by its own government.

Born to Freed Parents

José Lourenço was born on 22 January 1872 at Pilões de Dentro, in Paraíba, to Lourenço Gomes da Silva and Teresa Maria da Conceição - both formerly enslaved people who had been granted their freedom. Slavery itself would not end in Brazil until 1888, when their son was sixteen. At about twenty he went to Juazeiro do Norte to rejoin family who had migrated ahead of him looking for farm work, and there he came into the orbit of Padre Cícero, the priest whose following had turned Juazeiro into the great pilgrimage city of the Northeast. Zé Lourenço never learned to read. What he had instead was organisation. From the mid-1890s he rented ground at Sítio Baixa Dantas and drew pilgrims and drought refugees around him, handing out the day's tasks, teaching planting, teaching the folk medicine of the sertão.

Caldeirão dos Jesuítas

In 1926 the owner of Baixa Dantas sold the land out from under them, and the people who had worked it were paid nothing. Padre Cícero moved the whole community onto a large property in Crato known as Caldeirão dos Jesuítas, and there they started again. Each family had a house. Orphans became Zé Lourenço's godchildren. The residents built a church and laid out a cemetery. Labour was collective and the harvest was divided in equal shares; what was left over was sold, and the money went for medicine and kerosene. By the great drought of 1932, when the sertão emptied itself toward anywhere with food, Caldeirão held more than a thousand people. Religion set the calendar - pilgrimages, litanies, Mass on Sundays and holy days. Cooperation set the economy. When Padre Cícero died in 1934, much of the Northeast began looking to the illiterate farmer from Paraíba as his successor.

The Word They Chose Was Communism

That was the problem. Caldeirão worked, and it worked without landlords. Labourers were leaving hard estates for a settlement where the crop was split evenly, and the men who owned those estates noticed what that implied. With Padre Cícero dead, the protection his name had given was gone too. In September 1936 the fazenda was invaded and destroyed by forces of Getúlio Vargas's government, on the accusation that justified nearly anything in Brazil that year: communism. Survivors regrouped elsewhere and began a third time. Meanwhile the authorities in Crato and the Ceará press started reporting that fanatics were massing to march on the city, kill its people and burn it. It was a rumour, and it travelled.

The Tenth of May

A detachment was sent to watch the new settlement - Captain José Bezerra and eleven police soldiers out of Juazeiro do Norte. The peasants found them first. In the confrontation that followed, Captain Bezerra was killed along with three of his soldiers and five of the community. Now the rumour had a body count attached to it. It reached Menezes Pimentel, governor of Ceará, who asked the Minister of War, Eurico Gaspar Dutra, for support; Dutra authorised the commander of the 7th Military Region to provide whatever assistance was required. On 10 May 1937 the settlement was attacked by ground forces and by military aircraft. The official death toll was four hundred. Other estimates run past a thousand, and one account puts the figure near seven hundred. Nobody can be certain, because nobody has ever been shown the grave.

The Grave Nobody Will Name

Zé Lourenço got away west into Pernambuco and lived nine more years at Exu, dying of bubonic plague on 12 February 1946 at seventy-four. A crowd carried his body back across the plateau to Juazeiro do Norte and buried him in the Socorro cemetery. The Brazilian Army and the Ceará Military Police have never disclosed where the dead of Caldeirão were put; the mass grave is believed to lie at Caldeirão itself or at a place called Mata dos Cavalos. In 2008 the NGO SOS Direitos Humanos sued the state of Ceará and the Army to have the site revealed, the bodies exhumed, the survivors and families compensated, and the massacre written into the official record. The 16th Federal Court in Juazeiro do Norte dismissed the case without ruling on its merits. The following year the group took Brazil before the Organization of American States for forced disappearance. What stands on the ground today is a chapel, the ruins of the cemetery and a cross. In 2022 Ceará turned the site into a state park and the romaria returned to Crato; thirty-seven kilometres away, forty-seven families farm a settlement they named 10 de Abril.

From the Air

The site lies at 7.08 degrees south, 39.57 degrees west, on the northeastern flank of the Chapada do Araripe in southern Ceará, roughly 37 km from the centre of Crato. The plateau rim runs east-west at 700 to 900 metres and is the dominant visual feature; the Cariri valley towns of Crato, Juazeiro do Norte and Barbalha string along its northern base and are unmistakable at night. Recommended viewing altitude 3,000 to 5,000 feet above the plateau surface to pick out the chapel, the cemetery ruins and the cleared ground of the old fazenda against the caatinga scrub. Nearest airport is Orlando Bezerra de Menezes at Juazeiro do Norte (SBJU), about 40 km east; Petrolina (SBPL) lies to the south and Fortaleza (SBFZ) about 400 km northeast. Visibility is excellent from June through December; the rainy season peaks February to April, when afternoon convection builds fast over the escarpment.

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