Central of Elfashir north of darfour hajergadow
Central of Elfashir north of darfour hajergadow

El Fasher

DarfurSudanCitiesHistorySudanese civil war
5 min read

A pizza parlor once opened in El Fasher. That detail reads strangely today, but for a stretch of years in the early 2000s the city was booming. Aid workers arrived by the planeload to run the response to the first Darfur genocide. Rents rose, gas stations tripled, bottled water appeared in shops that had never stocked it, and somewhere in the middle of the boom a pizza place began serving expatriates in a town whose average morning temperature in March is twenty-one degrees Celsius and climbs from there. The pizza parlor is gone. So are most of the 252,000 people who lived in El Fasher at the start of 2025. What remains is a city on the northern edge of Darfur that has been many things across its four hundred years: caravan post, sultan's capital, university town, refugee hub, and, for eighteen months, a besieged island in a sea of RSF advance.

The Sultan's Town

El Fasher, rendered in Arabic as Al-Fashir and sometimes translated as the Capital, grew up around the palace grounds of the sultans of Darfur. The town sits at roughly 700 meters above sea level, 195 kilometers northeast of Nyala, on a plateau where three climate seasons divide the year cleanly. From October to February the mornings are cool and the afternoons merely hot. From March through May the temperatures climb into the thirties. Then the Sahelian monsoon arrives in June, produces virtually all of the 210 millimeters of annual rainfall, and is gone by September. The sultanate was an independent state the size of France until Ali Dinar's defeat in 1916, after which the British absorbed Darfur into Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. Dinar's palace, at the heart of the old quarter, became the office of the first British governor.

Town and Gown

In 1990, President Omar al-Bashir decreed a new university for the city, and Al Fashir University opened in February 1991 on grounds west of the airport and south of Al Fashir Secondary School. For a city that had always been a market town first, the university was a turn. Students came from across Darfur to study in a place their parents had known as a caravan junction. The 2010 El Fasher protests against rising prices left nine people dead when authorities fired on demonstrators, an early sign of the political stresses that would widen in 2019 and explode in 2023. The university's graduates filled positions in government, NGOs, and the aid response that reshaped the city in the first Darfur war.

The Boom That Came With the War

When the first Darfur conflict tore through the countryside in 2003, El Fasher became a gathering point for the displaced. The camps that grew alongside the city, Zamzam, Abu Shouk, and Al Salam, held hundreds of thousands of people from the Fur, Masalit, Zaghawa, and other communities whose villages had been burned. With them came the aid workers, and with the aid workers came the strange second life of El Fasher: economic analyst Adam Ahmed told the LA Times in 2007 that the people of El Fasher were beginning to think in a more business-minded way. The pizza parlor was the punchline most foreign reporters used. The darker reality was that the boom depended on an ongoing catastrophe that had not ended and would not.

Siege

The civil war that began on 15 April 2023 put the RSF on the offensive across most of Sudan, including all of Darfur except El Fasher. The city, defended by the Sudanese Armed Forces and allied former rebel groups from the region, became the last North Darfur holdout. The siege began in April 2024 and lasted roughly eighteen months. The RSF bombarded the central marketplace indiscriminately. Food ran out, then famine. The UN warned that the population faced starvation. For five hundred days children lived inside a city that was being starved and shelled at once. On 27 October 2025 the siege broke and the city fell. Widespread killings and rape followed, along with the assassination of Siham Hassan, Sudan's youngest parliamentarian. The UN, citing the scale of what happened, has not ruled out calling it genocide.

What a City Holds

El Fasher's symbolism has not died, an Al Jazeera analysis argued in December 2025. The city was where Ali Dinar made his last stand for Darfuri independence in 1916, and it was where, more than a century later, a coalition of government forces and Darfuri militias tried to hold a single ground against the RSF. Both times the defenders lost. Both times the name of the city outlived its defeat. For Darfuris scattered now in Chad, Egypt, and the camps around Port Sudan, El Fasher means something that cannot be erased by the fact of its fall, a capital where sultans ruled, where university students argued, where displaced families built second lives, and where, for a strange moment, someone opened a pizza parlor because the boom seemed like it would last.

From the Air

El Fasher sits at 13.63 degrees north, 25.35 degrees east, at roughly 700 meters elevation on the North Darfur plateau. El Fasher Airport (ICAO HSFS) is on the city's western edge. The climate is hot arid (Köppen BWh) with a short Sahelian monsoon June to September producing all 210 mm of annual rainfall. As of 2026 the airport is not operating for civilian flights; the region remains under de facto RSF control and is insecure. Chad's Abéché (FTTC) is the nearest regional alternative; Port Sudan (HSPN) serves the parts of Sudan still under government control.