Aegopodium podagraria
Aegopodium podagraria — Photo: Frank Vincentz | CC BY-SA 3.0

Juukan Gorge

Aboriginal AustraliaSacred sitesArchaeological sites in Western AustraliaDestruction of cultural heritagePilbara
5 min read

The gorge carries a man's name. Juukan was a Puutu Kunti Kurrama man, also called Tommy Ashburton, born at Jukarinya near Mount Brockman; his daughter gave this place its name. For tens of thousands of years before any of that, people sheltered in two caves here in the Hamersley Range - lit fires, shaped tools, plaited hair, buried their dead, and passed the country down, parent to child, across a span of time almost impossible to hold in the mind. This was the only known inland site in Australia with evidence of continuous human occupation through the last Ice Age and out the other side. On 24 May 2020, it was reduced to rubble in a planned mining blast. The people who had kept it for 46,000 years had begged for it to stop.

Forty-Six Thousand Years of Belonging

The depth of time at Juukan Gorge is hard to grasp. When archaeologists first studied the rock shelters in 2009, they dated occupation to at least 32,000 years - already among the oldest in the country. Rio Tinto received ministerial consent to mine the site in 2013. A salvage archaeological dig the following year, in 2014, revealed the truth was far older: roughly 46,000 years of continuous use, reaching back through the depths of the last glacial period. That consent, already granted, offered no mechanism to reverse it. The sediment held a near-unbroken record of life on this land. Animal bones in ancient middens charted how the local fauna shifted as the climate changed. There were grindstones, finely made stone tools, and sacred objects, layered one era atop another. For the Puutu Kunti Kurrama and Pinikura peoples, this was not a dig site. It was a place where their ancestors had lived without interruption since before the last Ice Age - a thread of belonging stretching unbroken into the present.

A Belt of Hair, a Living Bloodline

Among everything the caves held, one find spoke most directly across the millennia. Archaeologists recovered a length of plaited human hair, part of a belt, woven from strands cut from the heads of several different people about 4,000 years ago. DNA testing of that hair did something extraordinary: it matched the living. The strands belonged to the direct ancestors of Puutu Kunti Kurrama and Pinikura people alive today - some of them on the very team that helped excavate the site. A grandmother forty centuries gone, identifiable in her descendants who still walk this country. There are few objects anywhere on Earth that tie a living community to a single place so intimately, so undeniably. It survived four thousand years in the dark. It did not survive the blast.

The Five Days

The destruction was not an accident, and it was not a surprise to those who tried to prevent it. Rio Tinto had obtained ministerial consent to mine the site back in 2013, under Section 18 of Western Australia's Aboriginal Heritage Act 1972 - a law that, once permission was granted, allowed no path to reconsider it even after the 46,000-year findings came to light. The PKKP had said, many times, that they wanted the shelters preserved. Five days before the blast, they made an urgent plea to halt it. The company later admitted it had never told the traditional owners that blasting was only one option, that alternatives existed. Senior executives said they did not even grasp the significance of what they were about to destroy until 21 May. Three days later, the charges went off. The expansion of the Brockman 4 iron ore mine went ahead. The shelters were gone.

Outrage, Resignations, and a Reckoning

The blast detonated something far beyond the gorge. International outrage followed, and an Australian parliamentary inquiry titled its interim report with the only words that fit: Never Again. It called the destruction 'inexcusable,' laid bare how badly heritage law had failed the people it claimed to protect, and recommended compensation and reform. Within months, Rio Tinto's chief executive and two senior executives stepped down; the chairman resigned the following year, despite the company posting record profits. No politician was ever held to account. The disaster reshaped Australian heritage law and forced the entire mining industry to confront how it treats the world's oldest living cultures. Senator Pat Dodson named the loss plainly: 'a disaster for our nation and the world.'

What Cannot Be Rebuilt

Only a portion of the western wall of one shelter still stands. To restore some sense of belonging to the country, plans are underway to build a full-size replica of the destroyed shelters on PKKP land - drawing on historic photographs, oral history, and imprints of the original rock face, assembled from concrete in Perth and re-erected on site, in the spirit of the recreated Lascaux and Chauvet caves in France. It is a serious and respectful effort, funded by the company responsible. But everyone involved understands the limit of it. A replica can echo a shape. It cannot carry 46,000 years of fires, of footsteps, of hair laid down by ancestors whose blood still runs in the living. Some things, once blasted from the earth, do not come back.

From the Air

Juukan Gorge lies at roughly 22.62 degrees south, 117.16 degrees east, in the Hamersley Range about 60 km from the town of Tom Price, within Rio Tinto's Brockman mining area in the Pilbara. From the air the surrounding country is classic Pilbara: deep-red ranges grooved by gorges, the dark banding of iron-bearing rock, and the scars and haul roads of active mining. This is a working iron-ore landscape, not a public lookout - the nearest airports are Paraburdoo (YPBO) to the south and Newman (YNWN) to the east, both serving the mining towns. Approached respectfully, the view is a study in contrast: one of the planet's oldest records of human life, set inside one of its largest industrial mining operations. Clearest in the dry winter season.